Easy question I hope… My passenger electric window stopped working

[scottevest]

Out of nowhere, my passenger window stopped responding to the switch. Before I start digging around, does anyone know if the fuse is the likely culprit and only likely affects just that single window? Otherwise next steps?


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[HB Chris]

Your 74 has circuit breakers under and on the right of steering column, push that in first.

 

[scottevest]

I pushed the two adjacent smaller buttons and one larger one right above it, to no avail. I confirmed too that only the front passenger window is affected, not the rear. Do you think the fuse is just for this window?

 

[HB Chris]

Swap the rear switch for the front switch and see if that works, if it does it's the switch.

 

[scottevest]

Swap the rear switch for the front switch and see if that works, if it does it's the switch.

Thank you. I will try that


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[aearch]

in the 74 its one fuse each side
id check the connections
most likely loose

 

[scottevest]

OK, so I looked at the fuses and from what I can tell none of them seem to be burnt out and according to the chart I can’t seem to locate the one that would apply to the windows specifically the passenger front window. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I am not terribly mechanically inclined. I am bringing the vehicle to San Francisco next month to have a lot of work done.

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[scottevest]

I forgot to test the switch. Wondering how hard that is to configure. Seems unlikely that is the issue since nothing has affected it as far as I can tell


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[Wladek]

As was mentioned before - try to change switch first.
If it wouldn't help - check cable plugs on window motor maybe one was loose and disconnected.

 

[Stevehose]

You have incorrect fuses in your fuse block. Compare to your fuse diagram in the second pic. Some of them allow too much amperage for the circuit. The first 5 should be white, then 2 red, then white, then red, then blue.

 

[HB Chris]

Scott,

Unzip the shifter boot, push up the two passenger side switches. They have plugs underneath so you won't have to worry about switching wires. Also, check your fuses vs. the required amps on your sticker, yours are almost all wrong. You don't want 16A fuses where 8A are needed, same with 25A.

 

[Arde]

Wrong but patriotic, red, white, and blue. These colors don't run and these fuses don't blow!

Scott,

... Also, check your fuses vs. the required amps on your sticker, yours are almost all wrong. ...

 

[Bwana]

Overthinking this guys, the window is probably just stuck. Pop the manual handle cover off the door card (assuming a '74 came with manual windows) and roll the gear drive away from you while pushing the window down switch. Careful you don't get your finger pinched. Or use the cool "window stuck" tool. This happens to my passenger window all the time.

 

[Gary Knox]

Bwana,

The '74 models do not have the manual override option, and no plastic 'window stuck' tool was supplied (nor holes in the door/rear qtr panel cards).

Scott, be SURE both those small circuit breakers below the switch area pushed in and 'clicked' in place. Also, I FULLY agree with several previous posts - get the correct fuses in that fuse box. A fire or serious wiring failure can result from higher fuse current rating than the wiring is capable of carrying.

Gary

PS: Scott: Maybe 'click' is to much of an audible word! Sorry about that, but I guess I really meant they stay firmly in place when the button is pushed IN.

G--

 

[Ohmess]

Scott -- do you have the ability to check for voltage at the switch?

I bought a used Fluke multimeter several years ago and they come in very handy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/fluke-78-au...398809?hash=item1a36caa0d9:g:aEYAAOSwEfBZrIPj

 

[scottevest]

fixed! I feel like an idiot. The two red buttons to the right of the steering column don’t seem to stay depressed you can only depressed them and they pop out and pressing them did not help at all with the window. Going to try to see if it is the switch although the food does not seem to come out that readily. I will continue working on it. Thank you so much. I have only changed a couple of these fuses over the years and was sure to make the right color fit which leads me to believe the wrong fuses were in it from the day I bought it seven years ago or so


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[scottevest]

Bwana,

The '74 models do not have the manual override option, and no plastic 'window stuck' tool was supplied (nor holes in the door/rear qtr panel cards).

Scott, be SURE both those small circuit breakers below the switch area pushed in and 'clicked' in place. Also, I FULLY agree with several previous posts - get the correct fuses in that fuse box. A fire or serious wiring failure can result from higher fuse current rating than the wiring is capable of carrying.

Gary

Gary, these do not click at all. It just push in and out at no matter how hard I push them. Should they click into place? Are there any fuses associated with these that I should be concerned with? Thanks for your help


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[HB Chris]

Scott,

If the circuit breakers do not push in and stay then all windows will not work, one is for left and the other the right side I believe. There are no other window motor fuses, I think they get power from fuse ten, the blue 25a one, same as heater blower. Does heater blower work?

 

[scottevest]

Scott,

If the circuit breakers do not push in and stay then all windows will not work, one is for left and the other the right side I believe. There are no other window motor fuses, I think they get power from fuse ten, the blue 25a one, same as heater blower. Does heater blower work?

Well, since all other windows work, I assume they are "pushed in" but no matter how many times I try to push, they just keep spring back. The heater blew the other day, so I assume that's fine.
I again feel like a complete idiot on the fuses. After changing them, the car seems to run better, especially at idle, whereas before it idled very low and rough, but now it seems tight, although at around 7000 RPMs which seems a bit low to me.

@Ohmess, I don't have the Fluke thing but happy to get it.

I am heading to Boise tomorrow, about 150 miles, and can have my Boise shop take a look at the window. It's not a real big deal, but would like to have it working before I head to San Francisco in November to visit Bill Arnold and have the carbs replaced, among other things.

 

[HB Chris]

That is normal, push the little lever to 'trip' them then push in to reset. They pop way out when tripped. Swap the switches, it's super easy.