Continuing Carb Frustration

wilies13

Active Member
Messages
73
Reaction score
43
Location
Germany, Stuttgart area
Hi Leonard,
I bought second source sets of carb gaskets. I had a look if all the "holes" are present.
Then the engine had no idle speed. The search (ignition and others what I worked on in the meantime) costs me weeks.
Then I found, that there is a small difference. It´s exactly about the idle system.
.. just as a warning.....
A lot of success !
Best Regards fro m Germany; Willy
 

Attachments

  • InkedIMG_0469_LI.jpg
    InkedIMG_0469_LI.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 122

Boobouna

Well-Known Member
Messages
303
Reaction score
60
Location
Sydney
Thanks to all of you for the help. I've ordered a new kit from classicgarage and it should arrive tomorrow. Maybe that will fix it.

Did this fix the problem? I am having issues myself and trying to find a solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

lsquaredb

Well-Known Member
Messages
200
Reaction score
51
Location
Chester VT
I ended up getting factory kits. There's a thick thermal insulating gasket that has a circular hole and seal in the vacuum circuit for the idle that is different from what came in the aftermarket kits (three small holes and no seal). That didn't completely fix the problem however. The carb problem was put on the back burner because the car was damaged by a tow truck and it took four months to get the insurance payment and repair. Hopefully in the spring I can take the car to a good shop for the carb work.
 

lsquaredb

Well-Known Member
Messages
200
Reaction score
51
Location
Chester VT
I decided to redo the Zeniths myself after several experiences with mechanics not fixing them properly. So using the factory manual, information on this site, and deQ's videos, I set of into the unknown. I'm glad I did, because I'm finding all sorts of stuff that isn't right including wrong gaskets between the intake manifold and head, wrong gasket between the carb base and center section, various missing nuts, washers, and small gaskets and the linkage between top and bottom set 8mm too long.

Now I've run into a snag with the sprung rod that attaches to the secondary diaphragm. The book says to set the distance from the support plate (the metal disc in the center of the diaphragm) to the end of the rod to 66mm. I couldn't get it anywhere near that with the new diaphragm. With the new diaphragm and the rod screwed in all the way, it's over 70mm. I then realized the new center plate is about three mm thinker than the old one, measuring from the flat part of the plate to the rubber. Then should I set the rod to 66+3=69mm? Whether I set it to 69 or 66, I need to shorten the threaded portion of the rod. Has anyone else run into this? Thanks.

Leonard
'70 2800CSA
 
Top