Center grill chroming

Stefano_b

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Hello,
I have to chrome my center grill kidney, actually really opaque. The chromer tells me it is not sure that chrome could “flow” all over perfectly.
I have seen that part is not “one piece”, and bars are detachable: could be advisable to detach all the bars, chrome one by one and then refit them?
Or there is the risk to do a mess?

Thanks!
 

Stefano_b

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Remove each bar and have it polished, here in the US we would then shoot a ceramic coat on it.

Only polishing? Without chroming? Actually the part is rather opaque as, something like “aluminum look”. Will post a photo soon.
And what about that “ceramic coat”? Any brand suggested?
 

deQuincey

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Hello,
I have to chrome my center grill kidney, actually really opaque. The chromer tells me it is not sure that chrome could “flow” all over perfectly.
I have seen that part is not “one piece”, and bars are detachable: could be advisable to detach all the bars, chrome one by one and then refit them?
Or there is the risk to do a mess?

Thanks!

aluminium is not the best material to chrome, the correct treatment is anodize, which uses an electic current and is more durable than other treatments
if you polish aluminium you leave it exposed to corrosion, hence the finish will become soon dull and grey
so, process is dissasemble, polish, anodize, and assemble

but those slats are very thin and fragile, make sure it to be made by a competent shop
 

Tony.dreamer

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Alluminum can be successfully chromed if done by someone that knows what they are doing! It needs a layer of copper as adhesion promoter !
de Quincey is correct that all alluminum E9 bright works were anodized.
The challenge is that for some reasons the Alluminum Anodising services offered today does not leave same high sheen bright reflection that was done on E9 BMW. Today’s Anodising Services are mostly for the purpose of industrial corrosion control . I have done one that came out duller. My guess , and it is only a guess is that there is not enough demand for the brightness we seek in classic car restoration for the experts to come up with a solution, or method.
I chromed one and it looks really nice . However they didn’t remove all of the slats so some section in between the slats have a different sheen . I say the 5 slats should be marked in order and paint/glue remover should be used before taking them apart or you would take a Chance of breaking the tabs . If tabs are broken they can be expoxy glued!
The polisher should slide a bar inside the removed slats so that it gives it more support and it won’t accidently fly off the hands of polisher ...

I will try to do one like Chris Sugested too and see how it turns out!
 
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Stefano_b

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Anyway, I have seen that the right way to operate is to disassemble the center grill, both for chroming or polishing. Is the risk of breaking some tab high or low?
Originally, was the center grill polished or chromed?
 

Tony.dreamer

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Anyway, I have seen that the right way to operate is to disassemble the center grill, both for chroming or polishing. Is the risk of breaking some tab high or low?
Originally, was the center grill polished or chromed?
Risk is low if you are careful. Even if you brake the tabs it’s not the end of the world. If you look Close you see the factory used some of type of glue after bending the tabs !
I would recommend you use a strong glue remover (dissolver) or try paint remover to loosen the glue factory used before trying to bend the tabs to remove them.
Polishing has to be done no matter what direction you go. But you have to protect the bare polished alluminum as Bare alluminum will oxidize very quickly. The alluminum oxide is thin layer and will protect the rest of the alluminum from oxidizing but it is not the shine (or sheen ) that you are looking for ...

To summarize after polishing your options are
1- chroming
2- clear ceramic or powder coat paint
3- Anodising (like factory did ) but won’t be as shiny as factory but will look nice.

Best wishes.. let us know what you end up with..
Cheers!
 
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Stefano_b

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Thank you Tony, about the glue remover, have I to submerge all the center grill or simply use it with a brush, where needed?
 

autokunst

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There seems to be a lot of discussion regarding how best to shine up the aluminum trim on our cars. Does anyone accept simply polishing the aluminum to a very high sheen, and then simply maintaining it with a nice wax periodically? I have done that on some aluminum parts/items, and would argue that a properly polished piece will retain its shine for many years. If the original anodizing lasted 30 or so years, I'd bet we'll get at least 10 or 15 with the polish and wax method. It is delicate work to polish these bits, especially the slats. I've used little cloth wheels with aluminum specific polishing compounds designed for aluminum aircraft (and also often used on old Airstream trailers). And we don't anodize or ceramic coat the aircraft or trailers - so it seems it should work for some car bits. :)
 

Stefano_b

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Yes Marco,
Very impressive chroming!
I am doubtful on the dissolver to use to remove the glue traces: it is a thin layer but very very hard...
 

Tony.dreamer

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Thank you Tony, about the glue remover, have I to submerge all the center grill or simply use it with a brush, where needed?
Depends on what glue remover you use ! There is a type that wood floor installer use that is very potent , I can’t remember the name now . You should use a disposable brush and dab the end Little and cover it with plastic for few minutes . Make sure to look at the reaction to bare , or very corroded alluminum! MAKE SURE YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS OF ANY PAINT OR GLUE REMOVER . Some are more Enviromentally friendlier than others.
Do it in open air and in a enclosed areas . Use a little at the time.
There seems to be a lot of discussion regarding how best to shine up the aluminum trim on our cars. Does anyone accept simply polishing the aluminum to a very high sheen, and then simply maintaining it with a nice wax periodically? I have done that on some aluminum parts/items, and would argue that a properly polished piece will retain its shine for many years. If the original anodizing lasted 30 or so years, I'd bet we'll get at least 10 or 15 with the polish and wax method. It is delicate work to polish these bits, especially the slats. I've used little cloth wheels with aluminum specific polishing compounds designed for aluminum aircraft (and also often used on old Airstream trailers). And we don't anodize or ceramic coat the aircraft or trailers - so it seems it should work for some car bits. :)
If you use Alluminum polish the aircraft type is the best. There is a brand I bought that I have used for the sunroof rails I think it’s called T-50 and I am happy with it . But for the grill if you get the polish shine that you like for very little money you can have them ceramic coat it at any powder coating service . Clear powder coat is relatively new and a lot people are liking the result .
 
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Stefano_b

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I've used Nuvite and had a very good experience. https://nuvitechemical.com/
I'll have to look into the clear powder coating.

Thank you, Tony and Autokunst. I tried to go with the kidney to a paintshop to have some advise on the glue remover. In the photo, you can see how the old glue appears:
IMG_4104.jpg
IMG_4104.jpg
 

Rek

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I had mine chromed recently. The whole thing was noticeably heavier and the coatings of copper and chrome made the metal thicker. This was such that the plastic slats did not fit, until some engineering was completed to the metal. I like the results but would hesitate on some other parts. Chrome seems to be very brittle and might not like the engineering to make a slight thicker metal fit. I am thinking of belt line trims here.

The plastic slats (and headlight surrounds) are finished in matt black paint - hard wearing camouflage paint used by the military. The images are in the shade. In the sun, the chrome really comes to life.
 

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