Best Way To Get To The Starter

[GuerillaPro10]

Hello,
Im a new owner of a 1974 3.0 cs and the starter needs to be changed. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get at it, under the car or disconnect parts from up above?

Thank you

 

[chicane]

Hello,
Im a new owner of a 1974 3.0 cs and the starter needs to be changed. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get at it, under the car or disconnect parts from up above?

Thank you

Above. You have to move some crap out of the way but it is definitely "easier" to get to from above. Although if I remember the two mounting bolts are a "bi@#$" to get to. I think I moved all of the plumbing out of the way and then used an extra long (approx. 2 foot) socket extension to go straight in on at least one of them. otherwise I think you have to use universal joint socket extension in order to get back there.

 

[bill]

If you remove all the plumbing per Chicane (which I would recommend), you may as well go ahead and remove the rear intake manifold (if you have carburetors...probably would apply also to FI.) That would make access to the starter a whole lot easier.

 

[HB Chris]

The rear intake manifold is tough to remove due to the nuts (12mm) below the manifold. I recently pulled the head for a valve job and left that manifold in place. When I put the head back on it will have intake and exhaust manifolds already in place.

Here is a question: my starter was held on with two nuts and studs, not bolts that go through the bell housing, is this the standard fitment? The 2002 uses bolts. Thanks.

 

[bill]

With the "plumbing" out of the way (i.e. the connecting hose between the manifolds, the hoses feeding the heater, and the hose to the expansion tank) removing the rear manifold is not that difficult...you can do it with a couple of bottles of Troegs Troeggennator handy and it is a piece of cake..for me, anyway.

 

[Sven]

After you get the beast out, you may consider replacing it with a starter from a newer BMW model. I used one from an '91 735i (my 3.5 motor donor). The newer motors have narrower bodies. This allows straight on access to the "inside" bolt (between the side of the engine and the side of the starter) from the rear of front of the engine. The original starter is so fat that, if I recall correctly, the only way to access the "inside" bolt is from the top with a wrench, or sharply angled universal joint socket.

 

[sfdon]

The e32 starter is a major upgrade and so is replacing the bolts with studs and nuts.
Only mod is swapping the spade connector with an eyelet connector.

 

[HB Chris]

sfdon,

Do you mean they originally had bolts and the upgrade is to the stud? That is what I have. As I posted elsewhere, I had a Bosch SR-41X and bought the slimmer SR-440X with permanent magnets which is much easier to install, although mine will go in before the head goes back on.

 

[Honolulu]

starter removal's a b*tch

In your toolbox is BMW's best answer to starter access.... the 17x19 mm (double ended) box wrench. It's thin enough to slip over the nut at the top of the bell housing.

All in all, though starter removal is a real b*tch. I used 1/4" drive ratchet and extensions to access the 12 mm nuts on the rear manifold, and IIRC had to remove the coolant reservoir and attached hoses as well.

Slimmer starter would indeed sound like the way to go... back in.

 

[GuerillaPro10]

Thank you all. Im going to get on it this weekend.

 

[decoupe]

I have a suggestion for easier starter removal/installation - buy the cheapest 17mm socket you can and cut it down to the depth of the bolt head itself (1/4" or so). Slip the socket on the bolt head, insert the drive extension and you should be able to remove/tighten - possibly with the intakes still in place (it has been two years since I did this so can't be sure) but getting the starter out may be the real issue. Finger tight the bolts to install the starter, slip on the socket and then slid in the ratchet extension and you should be able to torque it properly without any problems top or bottom.

Good luck