Anticipation...

arnie

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Really nice car from the pics, Tom

Just picked up some minor issues with missing parts mainly for the engine bay.

The drain hoses are also still available from W&N.

https://www.wallothnesch.com/ablaufschlauch-wasserkasten-heizung-64-03-01.html

Your fire wall is missing the top part of the insulation. Also again available as a repro part from W&N (rather expensive), what I discovered some moments ago, or from Christoph (cs-werk.de)

https://www.wallothnesch.com/schallisolierung-51-43-04.html

https://www.cs-werk.de/cs-werk-bonn...er-bmw-e9/20_1_bmw_e9_schallschutz_stirnwand/

The missing gasket you were searching should be this one:

https://www.wallothnesch.com/dichtung-unter-motorhaube-hinten-41-15-18.html

But do yourself a favor and leave this one, since it's not like the original profile, and in addition it's not flexibel enough. I tried this one and after installation it was simply not possible to close the hood properly, it was way too high, because this fu... gasket is to rigid.
Rubber parts from W&N aren't the best by experience ....

Instead of this you can use rubber profiles coming from EBAY dealers. I personally used this one after I had that "genuine" part from W&N:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/223130444637?ViewItem=&item=223130444637

way cheaper and workin' absolutely fine

Beside your engine bay, the doors are missing a (bloody expensive) gasket. Take a look here:

https://www.wallothnesch.com/tuerdichtung-aussen-links-41-14-13.html

Cheers

Ingo
 

Willem Tell

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But do yourself a favor and leave this one, since it's not like the original profile, and in addition it's not flexibel enough. I tried this one and after installation it was simply not possible to close the hood properly, it was way too high, because this fu... gasket is to rigid.
Thanks Ingo for the detailed eye.
The dealer said the same; in their experience, that replacement gasket prevents the hood from closing easily. I did not detect any heat or fumes in my few hours of test driving.
I bought the electronic heater bypass valve to install, but the dealer insists that it's not necessary, as the heater valve blocks the flow. Not consistent with those experienced members opinions here. Next summer will tell the story!
That door gasket fits on the outside edge?
image.jpeg
 
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arnie

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sry, but the dealer doesn't have a clue about the heater core of the E9 in that case. The radiator inside doesn't have an additional valve, so therefore the flow of warm water is permanent, and the operator just has the chance to open or close a "door" for letting that warm air in or not ....

The position for that gasket is estimated correctly. But I just linked one side. These are different for each side, other than the gasket, sitting underneath the bottom of the door frame inside that special profile. Do your doors have these at least ?
 

Willem Tell

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Thanks for the heads up. I noticed the other gasket in the drawing. I'll find out next week; car arrives in CH on Tuesday!
 
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Willem Tell

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:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Just picked up some minor issues with missing parts mainly for the engine bay.

The drain hoses are also still available from W&N.

https://www.wallothnesch.com/ablaufschlauch-wasserkasten-heizung-64-03-01.html

Your fire wall is missing the top part of the insulation. Also again available as a repro part from W&N (rather expensive), what I discovered some moments ago, or from Christoph (cs-werk.de)

https://www.wallothnesch.com/schallisolierung-51-43-04.html

https://www.cs-werk.de/cs-werk-bonn...er-bmw-e9/20_1_bmw_e9_schallschutz_stirnwand/


Thanks Ingo...
The drain hoses have been installed. That alternate gasket looks like a better solution. I'll have to see how much disassembly is required for the firewall insulation... I'm hoping I won't have to pull the top end in the next 15 years! :rolleyes:
 

Ulrich 3.0 CSA

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Nice car
Türkis!
Ok this is a Facelift Model (1974) when i see the Power window Switches
But interior is the Non Facelift!
Also the Parts (Hörner) under the rear bumper Are missing....also the holes in the Body To Mount These Hörner Are Not present!

Ulrich
 

Willem Tell

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Ok this is a Facelift Model (1974) when i see the Power window Switches
But interior is the Non Facelift!
Also the Parts (Hörner) under the rear bumper Are missing....also the holes in the Body To Mount These Hörner Are Not present!

Thanks Ulrich. That's what is great about this forum and the FAQ forum; there are so many experienced eyes out there that catch all of these details you need when getting it right.

I'm actually thankful it's not the original interior, as apparently all E9 and '02 models in Turkis came with a grey interior with beige velour fabric seats... wouldn't be my first choice! I think the Turkis over black works much better.

These are some of the "before" pictures from when it was on display in an Italian dealership from 1994 until 2017:
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (4).jpeg
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WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (6).jpeg

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WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (8).jpeg

I will NOT be re-installing the speakers in the door panels! :confused:
It seems that it was wired for the electric windows with MBZ-style switches, even then.
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (7).jpeg

It's hard to judge from this (only one) image, but I cannot see the Hörner in this image either. My understanding of the history of the car is that it was with the dealer from around 1984, and on display since 1994. According to the dealer no cutting, welding, or rust repair was needed or done (except my dealer replaced the spare wheel well not because it was rusted through, but because the sheet metal was thinned when ground for surface rust). I noticed the Hörner were not present, but I assumed they were not originally installed on this car.
Thank goodness they removed the clunky MBZ-style side lights for the license and re-installed the bumper-mounted versions in the holes in the bumper!
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (9).jpeg

Aside from some rust in the battery tray area caused by a leaking battery, the body was quite clean when they purchased it in Italy last year:
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (19).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (3).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (11).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36.jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (2).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-06-13 at 15.24.36 (1).jpeg


I know it's not original enough to enter it in concourse events. I want a comfortable, reliable runner - my intention is to DRIVE the wheels off of it! :cool: Driving it over to Munich and parking it in front of the BMW Museum is high on my list! ;)
Tom
 

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Ulrich 3.0 CSA

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Hello Tom
You Are Right Black with Türkis Looks Better
My Türkis 3.0 cs came with Black interior from Factory


Ulrich

230D15EF-CEC9-4653-89CC-5402CDAE843D.jpeg
 

Bmachine

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Gorgeous!

Interesting that when they redid the seats they went for the pre 74 direction and side bolsters stitching. Are those the original seats recovered or seats from a different pre-74 car?
 

Willem Tell

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Gorgeous!

Interesting that when they redid the seats they went for the pre 74 direction and side bolsters stitching. Are those the original seats recovered or seats from a different pre-74 car?
These are the original seats, but the upholsterer preferred the longitudinal seams to the lateral seams. They were already done when I first saw the car, so a moot point for me. I've seen both, and I'm okay with the long lines. It's really good quality leather; thick and supple. Feels more like original MBZ leather than BMW leather.

I am just watching the clock, waiting for the import docs to land in my mailbox so that I can set the MOT inspection and slap a license plate on it!

First project is to re-shoot the cavities with wax and install Lokari inner fenders in the front wheel wells.
 

Willem Tell

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So, to highlight my absolute newbie status when it comes to E9s, a simple question. This doesn't seem to be worthy of an open forum question, so I'll ask here:
I am working on mounting my license plates for quick release, as we have a great system here in CH; you can have as many as 11 oldtimer cars on one license plate!
This center plate is retained with a single center screw. I started to undo it, and realized that there is a backing nut behind the panel. Before I hear the nut drop into oblivion and have to dismantle the trunk lining, is this the case? No cage nut or anything to hold it?
It looks like I have to loosen and push out one of the rear lamp housings to free up that center bracket, but I don't want to drop that nut!
IMG_0534.jpg
IMG_0536.jpg
 
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