I love that car. I especially like the M version.
My Baby is done... Thanks for all your help!!!!
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I am afraid you are probably right. When I bought them from eBay he said they were rebuilt but apparently not so well. I don’t think there any wheels shops in my community but I will look in Boise
If all four wheels are leaking you probably have no silicone on any of the wheels. There is nothing to rebuild. Three pieces of aluminum sandwiched together with a bead of silicone. Dismount the tires and have the tire shop, benny, or a bathroom remodeler run a bead of caulk on the seam.
I’ll repeat for redundancy. Skip to 2:00
I think only one tire is losing air at a rapid rate. Since I don't have the car in my possession it is hard to tell for sure, but nice to know that Les Schwab can likely address this.
Car is "in paint" today, getting panel on passenger door painted again. Apparently, they rubbed it out too hard and it is now needed more paint. I asked Gary if the windows were sorted out and he said there is still a little gap. I asked if he needed help from the forum and he said no. There are only a few weeks left of summer and I'm hoping to get the vehicle this weekend for good, but not holding my breath..... I feel like I am watching paint dry....
We are down to:
- re-painting the upper part of passenger door, which I am confident will be done well, but not sure how long it needs to cure/dry again
- sorting out the window gaps, which I frankly would have someone else take care of just to get on the road if need be at this point if these are problematic
- sorting out the few remaining paint imperfections, i.e. i can see only a few and have to look very hard to see them.
That's a great video showing the process. I think a few take-aways and a follow up question are:
- Perhaps the most difficult and critical part of the process is cleaning the wheel components well before reassembly. As with anything...
- Even the ham handed technician in the video is successful in re-assembly (I specifically note the socket head falling off and surely rounding over the nuts on almost every snugging :eek
.- I was surprised to see that three layers of silicone would be applied. Silicone does not stick to itself. So the only bond of additional applications can be where the silicone touches the metal (right where the "finger wipe" method of the previous application likely smeared a thin layer of silicone on the surface of the metal).
But again, a great illustration of the relative simplicity of this operation. Thanks for posting!
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You can drive this car hard and not break it.
And if you make an acquaintance with a barrier you won’t feel bad because it’s not your baby.
It’s new enough that you should not have any trouble finding a race shop to maintain it for you.
I just talk to Gary and he would love to get your collective thoughts and advice on how to adjust the windows to get them to shut without a gap. Tomorrow I think I will go down there and do a live video and let you know what time and where I will post a video and if by chance anyone with knowledge could come in and give us real time thoughts on how to address the windows. I do think that this is a very specific thing to these vehicles
Ok, so Gary and I are going to try to sort out the window gap this afternoon at ~1pm MT. I am going to Livestream so that anyone can watch in real time and advise us on what to do. If you are around, please goto my Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/SCOTTeVESTceo and join in. I will post the actual link here afterwards so that it can help others or you can weigh in later. Thanks so much for all your help! I really appreciate it.
Someone said it was as simple as this:
ok, it "should" be a simple adjust issue on the door window. If it was the rear window it would not seat into the upper gasket. There is inside the door a adjustment for the track and that should have been done with the door card off and the door closed.
http://e9-driven.com/public/library/bmw-e9-manual/pages/en/51321540.html
Someone said it was as simple as this:
ok, it "should" be a simple adjust issue on the door window. If it was the rear window it would not seat into the upper gasket. There is inside the door a adjustment for the track and that should have been done with the door card off and the door closed.
http://e9-driven.com/public/library/bmw-e9-manual/pages/en/51321540.html
I think calling it simple is accurate, but very misleading. It is like saying that it is simple for Picasso to paint a piece. He just dabs his brush and applies paint onto the canvas - anyone can do that. But the results are very different if anyone else dabs and applies the paint - even other artists. We'll all get paint onto the surface, but it may not work the same.
It is simple to turn a screw and shift a rail. But organizing fine little adjustments all in balance and in an order to achieve perfect results is an art. How's that for an analogy?
It is simple to turn a screw and shift a rail. But organizing fine little adjustments all in balance and in an order to achieve perfect results is an art.
How's that for an analogy?
point taken. not my words on "simple" btwI think calling it simple is accurate, but very misleading. It is like saying that it is simple for Picasso to paint a piece. He just dabs his brush and applies paint onto the canvas - anyone can do that. But the results are very different if anyone else dabs and applies the paint - even other artists. We'll all get paint onto the surface, but it may not work the same.
It is simple to turn a screw and shift a rail. But organizing fine little adjustments all in balance and in an order to achieve perfect results is an art.
Hi Scott - totally understand. I didn't mean to imply that you said it was simple. Just expounding on the complex idea of simplicity. I hope the live cast helps to make the alignments go smoothly (pun intended).
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We are going to reschedule this until tomorrow. Benny called to say the paint on the door needs to be redone, again, and thus can't work on windows today, but the good news is that he said I will be driving the car this weekend FOR SURE..... YAY! I will update tomorrow on this.
I just pulled the inner panel off to access a stuck window two days ago, and replaced the rubber bumper that stops the travel of the window on the way up. The large gear that moves the window frame on its track has a large bump on it that travels from stop to stop as the window moves up and down. Both stops are adjustable to allow you to set where the window stops in both the up and down position. The stops themselves are rubber bumpers on the end of threaded rods; the rods thread through the metal frame holding the motors, gears and window slides. You can move them in and out to adjust where the window stops, and a 10mm nut then keeps them in position.
My problem was that the stop for the up position travel was crushed, allowing the window to travel too far upwards. My original low torque motors could not start the window moving downward; I had to use one of the white window tools Stan sells to get it moving.
If your window is not traveling all the way up to close, you need to loosen the 10mm nut on the thread of the bottom bumper and turn the bumper into the metal frame so that it is closer to the frame. This will allow the gear "bump" to turn farther before it hits the rubber bumper, and allow the window to travel further upwards (just as the process of my bumper collapsing allowed the window to travel further upward).
My problem was that the stop for the up position travel was crushed, allowing the window to travel too far upwards. My original low torque motors could not start the window moving downward; I had to use one of the white window tools Stan sells to get it moving.
If your window is not traveling all the way up to close, you need to loosen the 10mm nut on the thread of the bottom bumper and turn the bumper into the metal frame so that it is closer to the frame. This will allow the gear "bump" to turn farther before it hits the rubber bumper, and allow the window to travel further upwards (just as the process of my bumper collapsing allowed the window to travel further upward).
I went down today to wash and clean my 1974 BMWE9 3.0CS. It looks amazing. After eight months, I am one day away from picking up my BMW from a mini restoration project. I am so excited.
FaceBook vid https://www.facebook.com/1439430262/posts/10211763677874302/
See video here or YouTube for Hi-Rez version.
FaceBook vid https://www.facebook.com/1439430262/posts/10211763677874302/
See video here or YouTube for Hi-Rez version.
EJ333
Well-Known Member
My dream is to have a “ clown shoe” in Estoril Blue, but the prices these are fetching is outside my comfort zone. Anyways, the dream continues ...
Windows fixed?
Scott want to really race. Bad idea for a restored E9 like his. This Bmw is a commodity disposable car and it’s already been developed into a winner by professionals. This is the smart way to get into racing. Half the price of starting with a street car and converting it.
Just as I pulled away and rolled the windows down in the back before I left the parking lot I discovered the windows would not go back up and the speedometer was not working. Benny said he would take care of it next week.