Tried to find some info but not about the fan.
My original fan is working but from the sound of it not for much longer.
Thanks,
Gary
My original fan is working but from the sound of it not for much longer.
Thanks,
Gary
AC Radiator pusher fan? Info?
- Thread starter m5bb
- Start date
We use the Spal high cfm pusher
You need a 40 amp fuse.
You need a 40 amp fuse.
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Thanks Don, just what I needed the model # and size.
Gary
Gary
its easy to fix and restore posted a repair here
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
A little music for this thread...
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
I use the BMW 64541392913 2-speed auxiliary pusher fan from an E32/34/36 powered by a Volvo 2-speed fan relay controlled by a BMW 61311378073 91°/99° dual section temperature switch. Works just fine.
I like what Bavauto did years ago-
82* and 91* switches.
I would never let my engine get to 210* at the bottom of the radiator. That means 235+ at the top. That’s 50* more than what I want.
82* and 91* switches.
I would never let my engine get to 210* at the bottom of the radiator. That means 235+ at the top. That’s 50* more than what I want.
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
My temperature switch is in the thermostat housing. I wanted a switch that would allow the fan to turn off during normal driving. When it comes on low at 195° it is sufficient to keep the temperature from rising, and it turns off at about 185°, some 5-10° above the normal down-the-road operating temperature.
Much to complicated for this "Senior" brain but sounds great.
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
It's really simple. The BMW switch has 3 wires, one for each switch and a ground. The fan has 3 wires, one for each speed and a ground. The Volvo Relay has 3 plugs, one for the 12v power, one for the two switch inputs, and one for the two outputs. The switch in the ground leg of the temp switch turns the fan off. I use a Normally Open relay contact on the ignition circuit so the fan shuts off when I turn the key off.
Good info Mike.
Did you have to drill and tap an additional mount for the temp switch?
I just found this thread, which has helpful info:
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml
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Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
I just use a later style housing with more tapped ports. I have the original temperature sender, a mechanical temperature gauge and the control switch for the fan. I can pick them up at Pick and Pull for $6, compared to unbelievably high priced ones on Ebay...
Note that in the Volvo thread you linked they use an additional large relay in series with the main power to shut off the fan when the ignition is shut off. From an engineering standpoint this is poor design, putting two large relays in series when you could put a smaller relay in the control circuit of the fan relay, as I show in my schematic. If you open up the low current ground leg of your temperature switch, the fan will shut off.
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It's really simple. The BMW switch has 3 wires, one for each switch and a ground. The fan has 3 wires, one for each speed and a ground. The Volvo Relay has 3 plugs, one for the 12v power, one for the two switch inputs, and one for the two outputs. The switch in the ground leg of the temp switch turns the fan off. I use a Normally Open relay contact on the ignition circuit so the fan shuts off when I turn the key off.
this is very nice,
but, let me understand, why do you put a switch to open the ground line of the temp switch ?
i understand that when you stop the engine the temp might be high and start descending very slowly
so why dont you ket the fan help cooling the system ?
would it take long ?
would you discharge the battery ?
i know that if the water pump is not working the coolant circuit will not be doing much work
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
When I bought the car it had a fan in it that stopped when I shut off the engine, as is the case with the majority of cars on this page. It bothered me that the fan was running but the coolant wasn't circulating past the temperature switch and it may take a while to get it to shut off. I have two batteries in the car, so I've never had a problem running out of battery. As far as shutting off the fan, the easiest and low current way to do this is to open up the ground to the control switches.
I've never had any temperature problems with the engines I've used, so post operation cooling isn't something that I think much about. The best way to cool the engine is to let it run and circulate the coolant, but my experience is that the harder I drive the car, the cooler it runs.
I've never had any temperature problems with the engines I've used, so post operation cooling isn't something that I think much about. The best way to cool the engine is to let it run and circulate the coolant, but my experience is that the harder I drive the car, the cooler it runs.
I HAVE AN EXTRA SPAL PUSH FAN
WITH SPECS ABOVE IF YOU WOULD LIKE IT LET ME KNOW
WITH SPECS ABOVE IF YOU WOULD LIKE IT LET ME KNOW
I'm jealous! I did a complete resto on an MBZ W108 in CA about 20 years ago. Not only was the Pick 'n Pull invaluable for parts, I could go out with my digital camera and take assemblies like the sunroof apart to figure out how to get mine back together years after disassembly! Wish we had them in Europe!
So something like an E28 would have additional ports?
I caught that weak relay design on the Volvo thread, would do it like yours.
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
Looking at Realoem - the 11531710959 housing is the one. Shows up in all kinds of M30 powered models. You want to make sure that the thermostat is compatible with the housing, as there are different lengths.
ok
so to cut the ground of the sensor you use another relay that is operated by the +12v signal from the ignition key and that allows the sensor to have a ground or not depending on the previously mentioned operation, right ?
Looking at Realoem - the 11531710959 housing is the one. Shows up in all kinds of M30 powered models. You want to make sure that the thermostat is compatible with the housing, as there are different lengths.
thi s is extremely important,...
make sure that the thermostat is compatible with the housing, as there are different lengths.