4310316 begins

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
you know thats a good idea
ive though of that esp as it is the oem way of wrapping the wires.
i really love the tesa fabric tape
it never comes off once you bring it back on itself
it is really durable and attractive when its set up
and i leave a bit of wire exposed at the ends to check and
verify continuity.
dont like the exposed sections as in oem style
looks unfinished to me, ok
 

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
hooked up the ac lines
tried to pull a vacuum
slight leak somewhere - thats fine just dont want the compressor to burn up when i start it.
WOW BY SOME LUCK
a compression fitting has the same threads as the
fitting on ac guages
so simple task of throwing pressure into the system and listen for the hissing leak
amazing
 
Last edited:

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
im repairing the holes i had to cut in the fenderwell and into the cabin where i had the
motronic harness. i had a stainless steel case i saved from my replaced radiant heater and used pieces cut from that.
question
why dont people use stainless steel when replacing and patching rusted out body parts and
understructure?
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Markos

CSL Lust
Staff member
Site Donor $$
Messages
9,003
Reaction score
2,661
Location
Seattle, WA
question
why dont people use stainless steel when replacing and patching rusted out body parts and
understructure?
I think it is a good option for stand alone parts patchwork that is bolted or glued to the body. Not for welded repairs. Stainless steel is also harder to work with. Try to bend that little piece that you mentioned having. If it was regular carbon steel you could fold it in half with your hands.

Reasons You Don’t Want to Weld Plain Carbon and Stainless Steel Wire
  1. Difficulty. Welding dissimilar metals together adds extra challenges to the process. This translates into increased labor, rejection/error rates, and costs.
  2. Hot Cracking of the Stainless Steel.Because it is more electrically-resistant than carbon steel, stainless heats up much faster in electrical resistance welds than carbon steel. While waiting for the carbon steel to reach weld temperature, the stainless can overheat and become riddled with hot cracks. Using filler-based welding or preheating the plain steel can ameliorate this, but these methods aren’t perfect.
  3. Thermal Expansion in High Temperature Service Conditions.Another problem with using dissimilar metals in a welded wire form is that thermal expansion from heat will affect each metal differently. This difference in expansion rates between the two metals can cause extra fatigue to the welded joint—reducing the wire form’s structural integrity and useful life.
  4. Increased Bimetallic Corrosion. One of the reasons you generally want to use stainless steel is because of its strong corrosion resistance. An uncovered weld of plain and stainless steel that is exposed to extreme corrosive conditions, such as immersion in saltwater, could cause corrosion. This is because the intermingling of plain steel particles with the stainless alloy compromises the protective oxide layer of the stainless, allowing rust to form.
  5. Reduced Weld Strength. The problem with joining dissimilar metals is that it can lead to weaker welds—even with filler-based welding methods. The differences in weld temperatures and operational tolerances alone can easily compromise the strength of the welded joint.
 

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
i have all the wiring checked so i took out the seats too repair the vinyl edging in the carpet
ill clean the carpet and finish working under the dash before it reinstall the seats
 

Attachments

Keshav

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $
Messages
1,596
Reaction score
1,022
Location
Weiterstadt, Germany
Common Alan,
Philips or Osram 4w bulbs. There where you’d buy other bulbs too. Maybe someone local to you can recommend a source.
 

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
since i have the seats out its really easy to lay there and work under the dash , so i released all the underdash wiring and unraveled
all the wires and aligned them up and used wire ties to keep them organized.
i wanted to make sure the fuse box wires weren't wrapped up and make the box easy to install
and make plenty of room for the cruise control box and wiring
fairly happy with it.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
i dont want to load this post with silly things yet i want to document all the details
into this rebuild ok
whats this part for? dash - instruments? bout a 1/2"
 

Attachments

Last edited:

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
reference to compatibility of the oem motor mounts for the s38b36 revision.
so i should be ok with the (E) MOUNTS - with the possibilty of pulling it apart
if the engine torques too much . that will be something i can learn about once it runs.
"quote"
For many years I have listen to people giving their opinion about how heavy the S38 is.
Does it look heavy ? Absolutely,
Does it rev heavy absolutely.
Does BMW used heavy parts absolutely.
No one was able to bring the Exact information of the numbers all these years.
I decided to find out the truth about all NA BMW Motorsport engines measured with full accessories attached.
I did measurements with full accessories.
All the engines will be +/- few pounds but the main weight is there.
S38-B36- 587pounds/266kgs
with the question of motor mounts i did some research
the m30b32 weights 500
so ive added about a 80 pounds
 
Last edited:

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
i wanted to replace the inner fender material as i overheated it the first time and lost the diamond pattern
so i pulled it all off , wire wheeled the metal, and added por15 seam sealer at the fender and mounting points
there were some ugly gaps , i did fill the seam by the strut mount
looks fairly messy , yet it is all smoothed out ,so the asphalt lays out nicely.
so now im sure the water wont wick back in there. pretty scary.
getting ready to check the electrical functions today
im been putting it off as i was Leary if it all would work.
hopefully things will go well.
i just made a right glove box hinge till i find another,
so now i can hook up the air mixture gauges under there and the links unit.
then ill finish setting the software for the tune shop.
hope to get everything together this wonderful weekend
have a great holiday.
IMG_1547.JPG
IMG_1546.JPG
IMG_1544.JPG
IMG_1545.JPG
IMG_1547.JPG
 
Last edited:

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
also im going to polish all the aluminum interior trim this weekend
as its started to look bad from doing so many other things.
finished up-
ready to install the new grid
IMG_1548.JPG
IMG_1549.JPG
 
Last edited:

JayWltrs

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
634
Reaction score
298
Location
Oklahoma City
all these fantastic builds and craftsmanship
leaves mine with a bit to be desired
great work guys
Your car looks great & will be a wonder. Aside from the hiccup, you made quick progress on huge projects using your own skill, guile, and grit. These are the kind of builds that inspire me to dive in & get off my arse!
 

aearch

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
3,521
Reaction score
332
Location
pleasant hill , ca
gauges installed - and the bear of install the glove box
set them at the back of the flat of the shelf above - aligned with the vertical portion at the front
whoops now that im looking seems like i forgot the lock eschuchon
wonder what it look like?
IMG_1550.JPG
 
Last edited:
Top