2231367 Underway

Discussion in 'E9 Projects and Restorations' started by Wes, Jan 13, 2018.

  1. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    This is excellent. Looks like I'm missing parts 10, 14 & 15 - (i'm assuming this diagram is for a 1972 CS?
    In even better news it confirms I wasn't going insane in not being able to get it to work.
    I'm convinced a PO has mucked around in the roof as my cables are swapped out Volvo ones along with some pretty interesting wiring for the motor.

    The big question now is where do I source those parts?

    Wes
     
  2. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Looking at that diagram again what's part 7 as well is this some kind of optional deflector. I don't appear to even have mounts for it on my car.
    I've part 2, the pop up visor, but don't get where 7 comes into it.
     
  3. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Replacement gear knob arrived today.
    Looks great fitted.
    Also had 4 new keys cut, there is an outfit here in Australia that does a great job.
    Now awaiting the arrival of replacement parts to hopefully get the sunroof working.
    Hopefully somebody on here can provide some pics of how my missing wedges that allow the rear of the roof to pop up are installed.
     
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  4. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Managed to get some time blocked out today to work on the car.

    Still waiting on my sunroof pieces to arrive so no news on that front - it's going to be winter before my sunroof works at this rate :(

    I did however manage to install a new wiper stork, which took a little bit of mucking around. Having never had a working set on my car I'm a little unsure if the new one is working correctly.
    At present when you turn the ignition on the wipers want to run, unless you pull out the switch on the consul. This seems counter intuitive to me, I'd of thought pulling the switch out would tun on the wipers and dictate wiper speed?

    Also pulled out the tank and pump for the wipers as that wasn't working either. After flushing the tank it seems to be working, although not enough pressure to spray water on the wind shield. I'm assuming that either the jets are blocked or the pump is on the way out? Although when I bench tested it there was plenty of water being pushed out. I'm assuming the pump has a rubber impeller or something similar, which might have failed?

    Revisited the rear window switches, where the right one only goes down and the left one does nothing at all. At Teahead's suggestion I swapped the switches over and guess what? Now the left one only goes down and the right one is dead in the water. This must mean it's the switches that are the problem, distinct from the wiring?

    Also reinstalled both my sun visors with new mounting brackets (see my old WTB thread) using a pair from an E21 which are an exact colour match and fit perfectly.

    Was feeling pretty chuffed with my efforts until I took a closer look at a small patch of silicone on the top of the right hand shock tower when I was mucking around with the wiper motor.
    I scraped it away and now there is a hole 5mm across into the cavity :(

    How do I get a better look at it? Remove the wheel and the shroud in the wheel well must be the only way to inspect short of removing the guard I'm guessing.
     
  5. arnie

    arnie Active Member

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    Hi Wes, this depends on year of building. Your 72 should have the switch for the wiper at the steering column, while the indicator for the speed / interval is a separate switch in the middle console.
    For European lhd models this is a bit special, that the wiper switch is on the right hand of the steering column. Regular position for sure is on the left, so that you have to get used to that fact every time you switch cars ... :).
    Later E9s have that regular setup: Wiper switch and speed control combined in just one switch sitting on the left hand. If your wiper would like to run, although the switch is not turned on it can also be a ground problem from the line of the washer pump. This was my problem last time, when I didn't recognized, that this ground line had contact to the exhaust manifolds (I just had the tank unit not installed and the cables were just swinging around in the engine compartment, beginners mistake :))

    If the pump is still genuine, the answer would be no. The pump is a regular tooth wheel type, which are driven in a separate housing by a simple electric motor. Just be brave once again and unscrew the 4 screws in the corners. This is not critical at all, more or less self explaining. Just be aware not to let the gears fall out and disappear somewhere, while you dismantle it. Maybe the gears are just blocked from something and cleaning solves the problem. If not be that smart to invest in a new pump. No chance at all to reactivate a tired pump/motor.

    I'm really not sure what you're explaining here, so that is not possible for me to find a statement to this :-(

    Best strategy is to remove the fender, but I'm rather sure, that you don't wanna follow this hint. Rust repairs are a very critical point within the different E9 owners. You must figure out what the best way for yourself will be. A lot of really sound looking cars are in reality close to the scrap yards, because a lot of problem areas are hidden by former owners by using various arts. You need to find out if local rust patches are sufficient or better do a restoration from bare metal, which is of course very time and money consuming.
     
  6. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    This is advice is really appreciated. :)

    I'm planning an engine out respray/rebuild in a year or so. I'm pretty convinced this coupe has good bones as digging into other rust prone spots I've found very little rot, apart from the spare wheel well. I plan to have the fenders off for this so we can do it properly.
    As it stands just want to stabilise the rust and enjoy driving it for the next year or so while I pull all the replacement parts together.
     
  7. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    For some reason a few sentences of my last post are now in your quote.

    I wanted to add that the car was UK delivered as a CSA in 1972. This may explain why my wiper switch is on the right hand side on a RHD car?
    The consul switch turns off the wipers but there is no speed control. I plan to pull the consul switch tomorrow to see if there is an issue there. Will also check the ground.
     
  8. Aussiecsi

    Aussiecsi Active Member

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    Wes, in respect of the "cavity", maybe buy inspection camera ( about $99 at Supercheap Auto )which might help give you some idea of what's possibly lurking there...handy to have for other purposes too such as locating the $2 coin that rolled under the fridge ! . In any event , maybe just douse/spray the cavity with Fertan and say Penetrol to stabilise any rust that may be there. Cheers, Simon
     
  9. Boobouna

    Boobouna Member

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    Who did the keys for you? Is it a mob in Canberra?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. arnie

    arnie Active Member

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    I'm not that sure about the regular delivery of RHD - cars, but it doesn't have anything to do if your car is an automatic or manual. I assume, that also for the RHD cars it was normal to have the wiper switch on the right side. Control in the middle console isn't supposed to switch on/off completely. Normal setup is to switch on/off with the control stick at the steering. That in down position of the console switch your wiper is in interval mode. Pulling switch up in first position will change to continuous wiping, slow speed. Second position up will speed up the wiper to max.

    If the interval is not present also the problem with the running wiper motor although switch for on/off is in off position could be a result of a damaged wipe/wash relais.

    Cheers

    Ingo
     
  11. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Yes it was them. Send me a DM if you want their contact details.
     
  12. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Pulled down the washer pump assembly today.
    The pump itself is fine but the little plastic gear that sits on the end of the motor shaft to drive it is stripped.
    Would explain why I could hear unit running but basically no water pressure.
    Will add it to the list.
     
  13. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Thought I'd post a picture of my Momo wheel.
    What would have my car originally had, I'm assuming a wooden Nardi?
    Since this pic was taken I've ditched the gear knob in favour of a period wooden one and fixed the consul.
    IMG_1403.JPG

    As I start sourcing parts I'm also curious what peoples feedback/ideas are on installing an air dam, as opposed getting the front bumper re-chromed.
     
  14. Boobouna

    Boobouna Member

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    Unfortunately RHD cars (non-CSL) had original steering wheels as per below, with some having the wheel below with a wood rim. There may have been other variations but these are the most common for RHD cars.

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Got the car in at the mechanics today ahead of moving it over to Tasmanian registration.
    As part of the process the mechanic (read in actual BMW mechanic) asked how to turn on the high beam?
    Considering I've never driven it in fog of of a night I didn't know the answer but am I right in thinking it's on left hand stork?
    Or do you need to push in one of the buttons down near the sunroof switch first?
    Feel like a clown even asking on here :(
     
  16. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    if your blinker stalk is on the right side of steering wheel then yes it is the left stalk. Pull the dash light switch fully out so low beams are on then flip the stalk
    "up" (clockwise) and high beams should come on. Pulling the stalk towards you when in the down position should flash the high beams even with the dash light switch off.
     
  17. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    I thought this was the case.
    What are you calling the 'dash light switch' as I can't seem to get anything to light up.
    I'm operating under the assumption it's either the green or orange switch below the steering column?

    My right hand turn signal has also seemed to pack it on, now only working when it so chooses.
    Wiper/turn stork is new, so I've ruled that out could it be a dirty/loose connection or a relay.
    Can't be the first guy to have had this problem surely.
     
  18. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    Dash light switch = the pull switch that turns the parking and main lights on.
     
  19. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    So having confirmed I'm an idiot and located the dash light switch I can get some lights to come on.
    Pulling the switch right out gives me both of the outside headlights only. How do I get the inside pair of headlights to fire?
    Moving the left hand stork doesn't give me anything other than the horn - is it supposed to do this.
    The green button below the steering wheel doesn't seem to do anything, nor does a small chrome on/off switch.
    Assuming the globes are ok, along with the fuse, what's the most common cause of the loss of headlights?

    Can't seem to get my right indicator back up either.

    Might just have to be a fare weather driver who doesn't turn left :)
     
  20. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    Hmmm if your horn ring and brush are not shorting somehow then it may be down by the relays. The 2 relays by the voltage regulator are for the horn and high beam, could it be these wires are mixed up somehow? What say the forum electrical experts?
     

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