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500 watts tells you how much CLEAN power they can handle. And the power is a function of the amp. Speaker efficiency (often referred to as sensitivity) is specified as decibels (dB’s) at 1 meter per 1 watt of power input. My Klipsch Forte home speakers are very efficient at 99dB, and thus...

No “S” stamp after the rebuild?

Trying to appeal to old rich males? Poor car color choice too. Doesn’t do anything for me……..

Happened on a 2002 I had. ‘Twas a binding mechanical linkage between the pedal and the master cylinder.

Nothing happening lately, as the car’s in storage for the winter. I do have a list of projects for when I get it out in the spring….. But here’s a photo from the restoration 33 years ago. Dog is long passed, I’ve moved three times since, and the pants would no longer fit even if I still had them.

Sfdon, not to distract from your post, but check out this alternative: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/door-seal-hack.38435/#post-329055

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html So much easier with one of these!

Had that same problem on my V70R commuter car. Replacing the strut bearings fixed the issue.

Weird. And quite similar to one from Texas that failed to meet minimum on BAT.

I just installed this rear fog light and (aluminum) panel in my ‘73 Euro (Dutch delivery). The body cutout and attachment holes were already there in the car. The aluminum panel does not look as nice as the chrome, and I’m think about cutting the chrome panel to install with the fog light...

Ditto in my euro 73, originally a csa.

Yeah, I put some Schmiedmanns on mine, but it took some work. Their welding was incomplete on the exhaust mating plate and had to be ground out and rewelded. Then the tube for cylinder 6 was bent wrong, and required cutting and rewelding to fit in the car. Even then it wouldn’t fit and I had...

Well I did what Thomas recommended, removing the bolt that secures the chrome license plate mounting panel, and using the 0.5cm rod as shown below I adjusted and wiggled and waggled until I could reach the latch release tab, pressed it forward by lifting up the rod, and it released. For my car...

Thanks TomHom! Great info! I’ll attempt later today and post results. I can see through the gas filler recess (with the rubber inside piece pried aside) where the lid attaches to the latch mechanism, but not much more due to the trunk interior covers. Between the photos and an extra latch...

So I’m stuck as I can’t get the trunk to unlock. Seems to be a mechanism issue not a key/lock issue. The key (which works elsewhere just fine, and has always worked for the trunk) won’t turn to unlock unless I push it in while turning, and then it seems the lever at the end of the lock...

That’s the one I have in my ‘73 Euro, meaning the round one.

I forgot to mention its an internal regulator.

So my alternator light glows slightly when the engine is running, most noticeable at night. Never fully on, and diminishes as the rpm increase. I checked the battery after it sat for 18 hours and I had 12.5v, then 14.0 up in startup. I’m suspecting a loose ground, but I hope I can get some...

Just a wash on a nice September day here in VT

These are ALMOST identical to the ones used on the e3 models. You can take the e3’s, flip upside down, remove the end cap, cut the piece to length, reattach the end piece, and install. Only a VERY discerning eye would be able to tell the difference. I’d give more details on the process but...