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Excellent. A controlled experiment. I suppose if you have a firm pedal and straight braking, all is well. I've been doing some further research on forums for models using this style caliper, and it seems to go both ways. I think more support ABC over BCA, but that may be more because of Haynes...

Might spark some debate. Ask for comments and views on interpretation. I go by Hans on FAQ BTW.

If upper is last, then why is it labeled A? I believe the diagram also supports the OIL sequence, and that is the consensus on 2002FAQ. Anyway, have at it and let us know how it works.

I thought we were talking E3. But to your question, the E9 appears to share calipers with E3, E12, etc., so I assume nipple configuration is the same. I can't speak to 3.0CS with certainty as I've not worked on one, but I don't see why it would be different.

Found Haynes E3 and Carbook E3 manual. Both say OIL

Our input crossed. I use your method of starting furthest from the master, but knowledgeable people have said it doesn't make any difference. I've also used the manual method with success before I got a pressure bleeder. Sometimes the manual method can get out reluctant air pockets better. As to...

Very interesting. I don't have the Blue book or Bavaria specific manuals at hand, but I have two Haynes manuals here for 2002 and E12 with same caliper, etc. Both say OIL. Haynes is usually good about RHD, and the E12 manual speaks to RHD dual servos. Calipers appear to be the same as LHD and...

The RHD wiring diagrams should cover many of the areas in question. You should be looking for wiring colours and functions to confirm the wire is original. Brown wires are usually ground; you can check with continuity tester. What you don't want is hot wires flapping around unconnected. Someone...

The nipple order, so to speak. Far as I know, its OIL. Outer (upper), Inner, Lower (outer). I assume that is the same HB Chris that contributes to 2002FAQ?

Errrr, why does that appear to be different from 2002, which on tii is the same caliper? Or did I start happy hour too soon?

Looks good. And some decent clamps I trust. I'd just use reducer: it doesn't change anything and is hidden. I wouldn't screw around with trying to replicate the plastic spacer.

You might look for a 8mm to 6mm tubular reducer with barbs on it. Probably quicker.

I'd be replacing that hose, using a proper auto hose clamp, making sure the ring is seated, and using two big screw drivers to tighten it down. Assuming the plastic spacer repair works.

I wouldn't screw around with a flaring tool myself - to get decent SAFE results you 'll need to buy a high quality unit. Been there, have T shirt. Better to buy universal lengths of European metric bubble flare lines from auto supply store. Take a piece of original in to match threads/flare...

I'll send pics.

As I recall, these have three bleed screws, with two out and one in. I suppose you could loosen the inner one, run tube to catch bottle and push inner pad. I was thinking more of spilled fluid than residual pressure but this is alternative per markos et al above. AS an aside, Volvo calipers are...

The two pins that hold the pads should have sort of safety clips that keep them from popping out. The pins will need a tap on the small end with a straight punch. You can try gently squeezing the pad ears out against the caliper and then gently work a thin pry bar or big screw driver between...

Now as an expert in scope creep, I am hesitant to point this out, but... you might want to check the other metal brake lines around the car for rust. As above, if those are the original rubber hoses, I'd change them all. Old hoses swell internally and create all sorts of issues. If you plan to...

Its easy to chew up the fittings on the brake line, as appears to be the case with these. Soak with PB and try a proper flare wrench or vice grips. If all else fails, I'd be prepared to saw off the lines above the fittings and then use a socket to get them out (holding the rubber hose end in a...

I wouldn't be splitting the caliper unless absolutely necessary. Are those o-rings still available? PB Blaster is your friend. Use liberally a let soak for hours before attacking old bolts. In this case an extractor is worth a try but results vary. If that fails, you may need another strut.