CS-130 alternator conversion revisited

Mike Goble

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It's been several yeas since I swapped out the Bosch alternator for an AC Delco CS-130. I had forgotten exactly what was required to fit the CS-130 into the Bosch space. Since I was replacing my long block with a newer one, I decided to re-new the old alternator. This particular one is a 1342-6-7. As it turns out the CS bolts right in with no modification at all, save for replacing the pulley. Stock M10 bolt through the big boss, stock M8 holding the adjusting bar. New 17411 belt and Bob's your uncle...

ih2XIOx.jpg
 

lloyd

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It's been several yeas since I swapped out the Bosch alternator for an AC Delco CS-130. I had forgotten exactly what was required to fit the CS-130 into the Bosch space. Since I was replacing my long block with a newer one, I decided to re-new the old alternator. This particular one is a 1342-6-7. As it turns out the CS bolts right in with no modification at all, save for replacing the pulley. Stock M10 bolt through the big boss, stock M8 holding the adjusting bar. New 17411 belt and Bob's your uncle...

ih2XIOx.jpg
Thank you for the "heads up."

Throwing a curve ball, have you explored the availability of any bolt in Denso alternators? I recall seeing one or two examples used with M10/M30 engines in the distant past, but can't recall the specifics as to what model vehicle they were originally fitted to and/or whether some fabrication was involved. The primary advantage over your suggestion is less weight and size. Hot rodders have been using them for similar reasons. Disadvantages: reduced amperage, possible need to fabricate brackets, finding appropriate drive belt. Originality, well not so much.

My recollections are not as sharp as they may have once been. I suspect that the smaller substitute alternator may look something like the below images. These pictured do not seem to be the elegant drop in alternative as you have found with the Autolite, but maybe there is one out there that is not a pipe dream.;)

Just examples, not endorsements.> https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-FITS-VOLVO-PENTA-4-3-5-0-5-7-INBOARD-STERNDRIVE-2000-2007-3862612/163276639642?_trkparms=aid=444000&algo=SOI.DEFAULT&ao=1&asc=20170221122447&meid=fff9d200a58a431c82081bab2716df08&pid=100752&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=163192875717&itm=163276639642&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERN...=item56b2399f5b:g:wQ4AAOSw2sZbPM3O:rk:30:pf:0



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https://www.fuelcurve.com/powermaster-performance-100mm-alternator/
http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/AR019-Denso-Alternator-to-Big-Block-Kit.pdf

AR019a-Medium.jpg


AR019b-Medium.jpg



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Volvo?
MSN4si8.jpg
 
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teahead

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Is that gm alt one wire?

Does it have provisions for the idiot light?

What kind of plug does it need?
 

Mike Goble

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Is that gm alt one wire?

Does it have provisions for the idiot light?

What kind of plug does it need?

It is a three wire. There is a main power wire from the big B+ terminal to the distribution block I have on the fenderwell. The plug is a stock GM plug for a CS-130 and I use two of the wires. The sense wire (S) is a red wire and goes to the distribution block. The idiot light (L, or sometimes labeled I ) is connected to the brown wire from the plug. In my car my idiot light wire is blue. The other two wires aren't used. You don't need a ground wire because the case of the alternator is bolted directly to the block.

PGb2Oyl.jpg
 

Mike Goble

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I was merely pondering the subject and not offering any specifics other than what is in the ads themselves. Transplants have obviously been performed to a variety of recipient power plants. I have no information about success or any required efforts.

I have seen 1 wire and 3 wires. "Advertised" amperage outputs vary from 35A to 90A, and even higher. Whether this is suitable for a street vehicle that deals with traffic and air conditioning, unknown. Some of the Denso housings look like they "might" fit the typical M30 brackets, which is why I posted numerous examples. Still, it is hard to determine the fit from pictures alone. Some of the advertised units are for industrial or marine applications, but that would not necessarily mean they should be eliminated from possible consideration. (Some E3s and E9s look like they are no strangers to harsh conditions.) Blogs may cover this topic in general, but a cursory search did not reveal any specifics regarding a retrofit to an early '70s M30 engine. The transplant has likely been performed on other European vehicles produced in the late '70s early '80s, but again, I have no specific information, hence my post. (I have not experienced any out-of-the ordinary problems with the Bosch alternators, and have no specific need for an alternative, but was thinking "outside of the box".)

This might answer some questions for you:
https://www.fuelcurve.com/powermaster-performance-100mm-alternator/
http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/AR019-Denso-Alternator-to-Big-Block-Kit.pdf

I went with the CS-130 for a few reasons. They're 105 amps, $25 at the local boneyard and it's easy to find a car with a fairly new one. The 120° spread of the mounting points is very similar to the Bosch and you can use the stock adjusting bar. If it quits on me on the road I can readily find another one. They bolt right in with no modifications. The Denso alternators you picture have 180° mounting points and would require a bit of engineering to make them work.
 

bavbob

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My car has the double crank shaft pulley, one belt to water pump and other to the alternator. I swapped to an alternator with the internal regulator and like an ass, did not notice the new alternator pulley is not recessed like the old one. I have a hack saw blade of clearance between the two belts. Bottom line....anyone swaps out, I would be interested in the old pulley.
 

bavbob

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Mine was sent back with the core, I did not have the water pump mounted at the time so had no idea of the clearance issue.
 
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