so after this happened
i have decided to take a deeper look on the front axle system,...
i have decided to take a deeper look on the front axle system,...
Lan-Front axle, brakes, bearings, wheel hub,...and rear brakes too
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
i was considering the noise of the RH wheel, that was not sure if it was a bearing or the ball joint at wishbone,
so i plan to remove all those bits and make an intensive maintenance...will see
look at the symthoms,
left side wheel, is Ok, no noise
front side wheel is not
so i plan to remove all those bits and make an intensive maintenance...will see
look at the symthoms,
left side wheel, is Ok, no noise
front side wheel is not
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usually the ball joint castellated nut is corroded and difficult to remove, so penetrant oil is needed and we will see how bad or well i can remove the ball joint itself,
tip, a 50-50 mixture of acetone and ATF oil acts as a good and cheap penetrant fluid for this purposes, bear in mind
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most scary thing is to remove the brake lines from caliper, the nuts are so delicate ...
tip, while being in this i applied the lanoline based hodt product fluid film, it is a marvel against rust and can be applied directly on body and mechanical elements as is not harmful to rubbers, it gives that shiny wet aspect to the underbody
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calipers, easier than what i thought
clean them in a big tank with dishwasher soap and a karcher water jet
use a lot of compressed air to dry them, and clean two times with clean brake fluid
remove dirt in pistons and cylinders with a scotchbrite
clean them in a big tank with dishwasher soap and a karcher water jet
use a lot of compressed air to dry them, and clean two times with clean brake fluid
remove dirt in pistons and cylinders with a scotchbrite
Is it critical to march the pistons to their original cyliner?
m_thompson
Well-Known Member
I had the same part break in the same way. W&N airmailed a replacement.
I bought new pistons from W&N.
The most difficult part of the caliper rebuild is getting the clips on the dust boots.
I packed the area behind the dust boot with synthetic brake grease.
I painted the calipers gold so they look nice and similar to the original zinc-chromate.
There are lots of companies that offer rebuilt calipers. All of the ones that I have found have pictures of the right calipers, but the ones that they deliver are missing the spacer between the caliper halves, so they won't fit over the thicker vented rotors.
I bought new pistons from W&N.
The most difficult part of the caliper rebuild is getting the clips on the dust boots.
I packed the area behind the dust boot with synthetic brake grease.
I painted the calipers gold so they look nice and similar to the original zinc-chromate.
There are lots of companies that offer rebuilt calipers. All of the ones that I have found have pictures of the right calipers, but the ones that they deliver are missing the spacer between the caliper halves, so they won't fit over the thicker vented rotors.
Rek
Well-Known Member
Perhaps it was that leaf? It did make quite a noise.
Leave it to DQ to notice a $5 broken brake pad spring and to end up not only replacing the control arms but also to completely rebuild the calipers.
oke, i have a question about brake disk thickness,
according to the manuals i can see that theoretical thickness should be 22mm, and minimum acceptable thickness is 21mm
according to the manuals i can see that theoretical thickness should be 22mm, and minimum acceptable thickness is 21mm
am i right ?
should i change the disks, right ?
should i change the disks, right ?
When I got my car the fronts were at 20 and rears at 18. So I put new ones in the front and left the rears alone.
If you're at 17, I would definitely change them. They are not that expensive and since you have it all apart it is really easy to do at this point.
If you're at 17, I would definitely change them. They are not that expensive and since you have it all apart it is really easy to do at this point.
yes for sure, what i can’ t believe is how is it possible to have them at 17mm, that is a lot less than 21 , four mm is a lot of metal !
I was also surprised by that. I am wondering if maybe the 21 mm spec is for a different year than yours…
yeah, that was my first thought, hence the question here, but as far as i can tell there is no warning about different years in the manuals when referring to disk thickness
...
One other option I was thinking about is that may be a previous owner installed the wrong discs.
De Q, I find it hard to believe that you have lost 4mm, that is a 2mm grove in both sides. You would notice that as the pads do not go to the very edge of the disk. Or someone has machined them back on a lathe.
Then, why is there a minimum thickness! I imagine it is to stop the pistons travelling out too far when the pads are worn.
In my view, if there is no deep grove then they are fine. You could do a mock up to see how far the pistons travels before popping out.
I checked my reprint blue books, they give the same information as yours.
If you are worried I will measure mine at the weekend.
CB
Then, why is there a minimum thickness! I imagine it is to stop the pistons travelling out too far when the pads are worn.
In my view, if there is no deep grove then they are fine. You could do a mock up to see how far the pistons travels before popping out.
I checked my reprint blue books, they give the same information as yours.
If you are worried I will measure mine at the weekend.
CB
Just measured my spare CSI rotors (used). They are both about 22.1mm
The specs are stamped on the rotor...
The specs are stamped on the rotor...