The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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scottevest

scottevest

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So sorry to bug everyone again, but can someone tell me where to find contact information on Speedway? I searched this thread but not showing up. I know it was here before. I just want to get an idea on costs to compare.

Also, I asked Benny/Gary about the coating for the brightwork and told him about this: https://www.clearcoating.com/products/metals/ He didn't think we needed it because the car generally will be baby'd but wanted me to confirm with you guys.

He told me to order the drip gutters, Nos. 51131813025 & 51131813026, but per JP at Carl Nelson, they are VERY hard to ship due to their shape and require a special tool to install. Any input on this would be very much appreciated. Benny wants to get the new ones and doesn't think it will be tough to install.

The Lokari front fender inserts stand out a bit being silver, and wondered if you guys recommend getting them powder coated or otherwise.

Finally got a number on added charges since the last time. $1770, which is not that bad. Frankly, I have lost track. This puts Benny's bill at over $20k. He doesn't think there will be much more costs.

Benny thinks I will be on the road within 2 weeks provided I get the bright work back in time from Don. Whoever guessed mid June is looking like the winner.

Fingers crossed.

Again, I can't thank all of you enough for your help in getting this project done. I could not have done it without you.

Scott
 
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mark99

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you don't need to coat the aluminum, but like I said it will probably turn gray over time, then you can use Mother's on it
The Clear you link to I think is the do it yourself Cerakote
I will look up speedway and email it to you
 
scottevest

scottevest

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BP1 said:
Speedway Polishing and Coating- phone 1-714-542-7778
Click to expand...

Thanks. $1500-2000 and takes at least 2 weeks. I hope my guy comes in at about this. This now puts along with wood, etc. the entire project at over $40k easily I think, with bumpers and new BBS wheels tires, etc. WOW. Had I known this, I never would have done it but glad I did.

Lastly, I forgot to add: Benny wants me to order a NEW chrome kidney grill. Any thoughts on best place to get this?
 
autokunst

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scottevest said:
He didn't think we needed it because the car generally will be baby'd but wanted me to confirm with you guys.
Click to expand...
I have polished some aluminum in the past to a high finish. I am not a fan of coating. If the aluminum is polished to the appropriate fine level, waxed/cared for, I have found it to hold its sheen for many years. Simple maintenance (hand wiping with the fine polish and rewaxing every year or so) should keep the finish as you want. This can be done when you clean and deep wax the car every year - part of the same process. That's my perspective.
 
JFENG

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“Lokari front fender insert“
I would just have Benny shoot them with anyone’s good quality, self etching primer then shoot a single stage of black over it. I don’t think powdercoat is the best choice, because he’ll have to disassemble the rubber seals before backing.

John
 
StephenZ

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Markos said:
Sanding in place doesn't seem like a feasible option to me, particularly around the instrument cluster. Anything is possible. No matter what the wood looks better than it did before. The main disadvantage of waiting is double-labor on the dashboard removal, and the potential need to remove the windshield, which would also require a new seal. Some folks have had success removing the dashboard without taking the windscreen out. The door wood is a snap to remove, but does require removing the door panels (which only takes a few minutes).
Click to expand...

Yeah, to get a smooth finish on the wood requires a series of layers...I use a marine spar varnish. You can also seal new wood with a penetrating epoxy first coat, sand very smooth, then go for the varnish build up. The times I've done car interior wood, or boat teak, it's a very long, tedious, skill involved process. My final layer (could be 6-10 or more layers) is sanded much like a painted car finish. I'll take it all the way up to 3000 wet and polish it to a perfect finish. The dash panel on a 60's Triumph took weeks to finish (not working all day, the varnish requires 24 hours dry time between coats...then all the sanding). I know Home Depot says 'you can do it, and we can help'....but the reality is, if you've never done it and try it, or think it's not a big deal, it'll be a turd. I started learning custom woodwork when I was 9 and I can still make mistakes here and there, if I'm not staying sharp... and of all the people I've built for in the last decades that fancy themselves handy, maybe 2 or 3 really had any idea at all... I guess my point is, some of this stuff is pretty tough to get right and sometimes you have to weigh how right you want it, because it takes time and money to make it perfect...:).
BTW, I'm loving this whole build...so glad you went for it and had it completely done. Very gorgeous car!
-Stephen
 
HB Chris

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Those bumpers have been on eBay for a long time, they will never sell.

Keep original wheels, only worth maybe $50 each unfinished.
 
scottevest

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Sorry for all the questions. I agree about the bumper. Did not realize the wheels were worth only $50 each. The tires cost me more than that. Any advice on where to position the Sideview mirrors? Frankly, I found the factory position to be much too far towards me or the rear of the car and very inconvenient so I was just going to place them as far forward as they can go without interfering with stuff. I don’t see any reason why that would not work but before I do so and you guys beat me up for doing something stupid I wanted to ask. Honestly, I would much for the row versions of the food that we contemplated earlier. I think they would look cool but perhaps too out of place.
 
Stan

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I had my mirrors moved as far forward as the space would allow. A more Euro position.
Great White.jpg
 
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