Any interest in uprated headlight wiring kits?

nosmonkey

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Hey guys,

Was treated to such a horrible rats nest of wiring behind the grilles that I decided to start wiring the headlights from scratch with new wiring (colour coded to match the original) and connectors, with a modern relay set up and simplified wiring as well as having both high and low beam headlights set up to be run on high beam.

Would any coupe members be interested in such a product? I'd aim for it to be as plug and play as possible with only the relay triggers needing to be spliced into the existing loom.
 

HB Chris

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Since your coupe is a 74 it already has hi and low beam relays and the 74 also received larger gauge wiring in that area. Your headlight dip switch should already be set up as a euro coupe to activate the lo beam with the hi beam if using the H1 lo beam and not H4. Did the UK use an H4 lo beam? Easy to jump a wire on the dip switch to fix that issue.
 

teahead

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teahead

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What would be cool is if you can get a factory relay holder and relay and utilize the often vacant slot near the battery. 20151106_115443-1.jpg
 

nosmonkey

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That would be good, I'll have to see if I can pull the pins out of my old relay holder and install new ones.
 

nosmonkey

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Split the headlight loom from the rest of the front end harness today, just waiting on all the components to arrive now so that I can assemble it all. Update hopefully next Saturday as I have the day off work so should be getting it finished that evening.

If I don't set the car on fire then i'll post up results.

If i do....at least I'll save on paint stripper costs.
 

nosmonkey

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Depinned the old relay holders and cleaned them up. Have all the wiring components here except for the high beam connectors so I can get started now.
 

nosmonkey

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Bit of progress today. 95% of the way there. Just waiting on the new connectors for the high beams to arrive so I can fit them as well as a diode on the high beam harness (the white wire you can see poking out of one of the relay terminals.

Gone with a very high quality 1.5mm2 wire on mine as it is rated to over 200W. Less weight, more flexibility and a smaller loom. AMP IP67 connectors for the headlight and sidelight to enable them to be removed easily (E30 main beam on mine hence the difference). Fused relays for the high and low beam with the original connectors cleaned up and with new terminals and wiring, and loom tape to keep things looking neat up top. The whole lot is heatshrunk with glue lined adhesive at all ends to help stop water ingress. Just need to wir up the high and low beam triggers and sidelight wires into the car, I could have re used the old trigger wires but thought i'd rather replace 40 year old connectors all in one go.

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teahead

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That's good work, but was hoping to have it utilize standard round relays and maybe have the fuses located in a hidden, but accessible location?
 

nosmonkey

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That's good work, but was hoping to have it utilize standard round relays and maybe have the fuses located in a hidden, but accessible location?

I didn't have any round relays to hand as mine is a later car but from what I'm aware of it's the same fitment just the pin layout is different?

Don't see why I couldn't put an in-line fuse under the headlight covers, I used the fused relays as it makes things a bit easier and accessible on mine
 

Drew20

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I've just this mod on my car, as the headlight loom had been butchered by a PO anyway and I did not like the set-up I inherited. Much more work than I had anticipated!

I opted for fuses being accessible and visible, which I appreciate may not be for everyone. My 72 car had a high beam relay but no low beam relay, so I left the high beam alone (expect for improving the earth situation by the indicators) and added a relay for each low beam bulb (H1 on my car). I used 6mm2 wire, which is overkill, but is what I had lying about! Relays are hidden underneath the covers, so the visible mod is limited to the new +ve feed wires taken from the battery with a pair of inline blade fuses tucked beside the battery.

the "hidden" option I was looking at took the +ve feed direct from the alt, but this would mean that the fuses would be tucked away out of easy reach
 
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