Rear suspension rebuild sequence

[Cornishman]

I am just about to replace the rear springs, diff mount bush, rear damper upper mounts, and dampers (new Bilsteins). The shocks were very poor and one upper damper bush had failed, so I am hopeful that this will improve things no end. Any advice on the sequence or method?
What I have learnt so far is:
Damper upper mounts, remove metal bugs from the rubber, install rubber and then metal bush (tube). Do I need to jack this I. Bush in this a threaded bar and piece of pipe or can it be put in another way?

 

[deQuincey]

hi

will this thread be of any help to you ?

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14519

 

[Cornishman]

Sorry, sent it in error

Damper upper bush, do I need to jack it in using a threaded bar and piece of pipe? Or is there an easier way?
Should I fit the springs before or after the dampers? I guess first.
Dampers, the front Bilsteins had an integral bump stop so no need to fit the original, what have other people done about the rears, do you also fit the bump stop?
How do I get these Bilsteins on, fit the bottom first and lower the car onto the damper, then cut off the tape that holds it contracted?

Thanks to all for advice.

Best wishes
C

 

[Cornishman]

I got carried away

Well I got a bit caried away with my rebuild sequence and took the rear axle off.
Here is the status and some shots of the work so far.
First I was planning on just cleaning up the wheel arch and changing dampers and springs, so I rust treated the area and chassis painted it.
Then I ended up taking out the fuel tank, cleaning around as far as possible and removing the rear axle!
Next I aim to clean and paint the rear axle, diff etc.
I hope the next shots are with it completed.
C

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Yes, but when she's done... And while you're at it, don't forget the CV joints and booties! Also- and this is completely optional, but it's really easy to weld on camber and toe plates while you're this far in.

 

[Stevehose]

and rear bearings...

Yes, but when she's done... And while you're at it, don't forget the CV joints and booties! Also- and this is completely optional, but it's really easy to weld on camber and toe plates while you're this far in.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Sorry, regarding re-assembly, once you get her cleaned up you can support the car on jack stands in some way as to leave the threaded rods free (probably the same way you took the rear out). Don't worry about the springs, shocks or brakes until you get the assembly up and bolted in, then you can put in the new shock mount bushings up top (use the right ones), just throw away the rubber pieces that came with the shocks, put the springs on the "new?" rubber perches and line them up as best you can-you can micro-adjust later, then you can either collapse the shock or put the piston up the wheel well opening and use some assembly lube on the lower shock mount and a rubber hammer- you get the idea. Also, you may want to put in a new diff. bushing... again, while you're at it. Post any questions- DeQ is really good at this stuff so don't hesitate to poke him with a stick every once in a while

 

[Cornishman]

Camber and toe in plates?

Thanks for the advice and nice pictures, something to aim for.
Can you tell me about camber and toe in plates, where do I get them and how do I go about doing it. As a standard CSI with standard tyres only this Bilstein upgrade, is there really a benefit of adding them?

I did not follow the rebuild sequence that you I described is it;
Get the axle on.
New top bush mount in. Do I need to use a threaded stud and piece of pipe to pull it in, or is there a better way?
The springs confused me, they are far too long to easily get in place without bottoming out the drive shaft flex, which i wanted to avoid. So I can compress but even then they do not just go in place easily and the spring compressors get in the way.
Damper, I can't see how I can keep it captive and mount it, so when I release it surely it will be far too strong to adjust by hand. Is it, mount at the top then use a jack to compress it and then tap onto the lower mount?

I have new CV boots, rear diff mount and will order new diff beam bushes.
The wheel bearings seem fine so I was not planning to change them, how hard is it to do them when the car is complete, surely not too bad?

I will keep you posted, but in the men's time all advice welcome - even if ignored until too late and then regretted
C

 

[Gazz]

Camber plates from Ireland Engineering. They come with explanatory installation notes. Probably only really needed to compensate for the change in rear camber if you are lowering the car.
Maestro deQ' produced an excellent thread which answers many of your questions. See post #2 of this thread.

 

[Stevehose]

Doing the bearings while the suspension is off the car makes accessing the flange and stub axle much easier. The parts are cheap and you will not enjoy doing this job on your back under a jack stand. Especially if something is frozen and needs heat and or a big hammer to move. My .02 quid.