Oil filter holder (bracket) bolt torque

[mosearch]

Sorry; I don't know; was hoping someone out there does.
Long story short; I have a new oil filter holder installed; after much careful

baked-on gasket removal, installation of new OEM gasket, careful torque-down of 22Nm (just my guess based on the M8 bolts...
refilled crankcase; double checked everything; went for a nice 10 mile run on my local stretch of freeway...stopped at the local parts store for a few minor things...and found it is still leaking.
So...is this simply a matter of torqueing those 4 bolts a little more; testing...adding torque...testing...?
Or if there a set maximum that one would assign for those M8s into my engine block?
' 72 E3. Ireland Spin-on filter adapter. See photo attached. For what it's worth the bolts are "Grade 8.8"...which on many charts seems to indicate about 24Nm (18 ft.lbs.) as a maximum.

 

[NewSixCoupe]

I have this same issue (sometimes) and am wondering if the gasket has anything to do with it? I usually get them from Carl and change the oil in my coupe 1x per year. I've found that in the last five years I've gotten a small pool of oil to the right of the bracket maybe twice. That's with tightening by feel right after I've removed the bracket for an oil change, and then retightening if necessary after a test drive. For what its worth, I also ordered new bolts (all four) from BMW.

 

[eriknetherlands]

Friction plays a large part in the definition of the max torque of a nut/bolt. With standard (thus dry) fitting, 24 Nm should work for an 8.8 class bolt.
But as oil is likely in the pitch of the thread in the block, it affects the friction. Could it be that the Nm's should be a bit higher to reach the same compression force of the gasket?

 

[Stevehose]

any imperfections on the mounting surfaces?

 

[Ohmess]

I would check to see if there is oil in the bolt holes. You cannot properly torque the bolts if there is oil in there. I used long medical Qtips because they absorb liquid.

 

[CookeD]

Your mounting surfaces are most likely not flat, and that gasket likes to leave parts of itself attached. Though it sucks to have to remove the housing again, you'll need to do so and make sure there are no trace amounts of gasket material left on either the block surface or the housing. Old school style I usually like to very carefully scrape both surfaces with a razor blade, but you can also use a plastic gasket remover.

Note - The last time I changed my oil I was able to very carefully sneak the filter housing out from below. I used to change the filter via removal of the housing, but thought this time I'd give canister removal a try. Seems like I disconnected the battery and removed the alt. plug...

 

[HB Chris]

I would use a gasket sealer like Dirko.

 

[mosearch]

Thanks all...
The leak is gone after I:
1. Cleaned the mating surfaces more thoroughly than I have ever needed to do before. Heat gun, single edge razor, and paint remover were all involved.
2. Used Dirko HT on both sides of a fresh Victor Reinz gasket.
3. Cleaned bolt holes and threads using brake cleaner and Q-tips.
4. Torqued filter holder bolts gradually and evenly to 22 ft/lbs.
5. Allowed all to set up 24 hours before refilling crankcase and starting up.
It's been 200 miles now; no leaks. Fingers crossed.

 

[sfdon]

I use a stone on every surface like that.
Then you are flat and clean.

 

[mulberryworks]

View attachment 28610 I use a stone on every surface like that.
Then you are flat and clean.

Eeek. I'd only want to do that on an engine that's torn down lest abrasive bits would get into the oil passages. but I'm super cautious.