thehackmechanic
Well-Known Member
I'm looking at getting the non-functional a/c in the Bavaria working. I shot it full of nitrogen and could hear it leaking out the compressor shaft seal, so to no great surprise, the York is a boat anchor.
I well understand the process of a/c retrofit and rejuvenation (I retrofitted a/c into my E9, rejuvenated it in my 2002tii, and the single longest chapter in my book is on air conditioning), so my following question is very specific.
The York compressor has two #12 male flare fittings, so both hoses are #12 female flare. I'm making a test hose with two #12 male fittings and with a charging fitting spliced into it, allowing me to hook it up to the two existing hoses, bypass the York, and pump the rest of the system full of nitrogen to see what else is leaking (clever, huh?). If nothing else is leaking (yes, I know, chances are slim to none), I'd like to replace the compressor and leave as much of the rest of the system intact as possible. If, on the other hand, it shows that there are multiple leaks in other places, I'll just bite the bullet, do exactly what Stevehose did, and replace absolutely everything except the evaporator assembly, and if I'm going to do that, I'll do what Steve did and what CoupeKing sells, getting rid of every flare fitting except the ones on the evaporator assembly. But I have too many cars, too many expenses, and would prefer to try doing this one on a budget if possible.
So... the question is: Has anyone used a compressor from a later-model BMW that worked with the existing hoses? The compressor needs to:
a) have its fitting locations be reachable by the existing hoses
b) either have the same fittings as the existing hoses (the hoses are both #12 flare), or be adaptable to the existing hoses while still reaching
I looked at the "wing cell" compressor on, for example, a 533i, and it looks like it has #12 and #10 o-ring fittings, not flares.
I went through this same issue when I updated the compressor in my 911SC. Like on old BMWs, the original York had two #12 flare fittings, but the new Sanden compressor had a #12 and a #10 flare. I found that, by using a #12 to #10 flare adapter, I could leave every hose intact.
--Rob
I well understand the process of a/c retrofit and rejuvenation (I retrofitted a/c into my E9, rejuvenated it in my 2002tii, and the single longest chapter in my book is on air conditioning), so my following question is very specific.
The York compressor has two #12 male flare fittings, so both hoses are #12 female flare. I'm making a test hose with two #12 male fittings and with a charging fitting spliced into it, allowing me to hook it up to the two existing hoses, bypass the York, and pump the rest of the system full of nitrogen to see what else is leaking (clever, huh?). If nothing else is leaking (yes, I know, chances are slim to none), I'd like to replace the compressor and leave as much of the rest of the system intact as possible. If, on the other hand, it shows that there are multiple leaks in other places, I'll just bite the bullet, do exactly what Stevehose did, and replace absolutely everything except the evaporator assembly, and if I'm going to do that, I'll do what Steve did and what CoupeKing sells, getting rid of every flare fitting except the ones on the evaporator assembly. But I have too many cars, too many expenses, and would prefer to try doing this one on a budget if possible.
So... the question is: Has anyone used a compressor from a later-model BMW that worked with the existing hoses? The compressor needs to:
a) have its fitting locations be reachable by the existing hoses
b) either have the same fittings as the existing hoses (the hoses are both #12 flare), or be adaptable to the existing hoses while still reaching
I looked at the "wing cell" compressor on, for example, a 533i, and it looks like it has #12 and #10 o-ring fittings, not flares.
I went through this same issue when I updated the compressor in my 911SC. Like on old BMWs, the original York had two #12 flare fittings, but the new Sanden compressor had a #12 and a #10 flare. I found that, by using a #12 to #10 flare adapter, I could leave every hose intact.
--Rob
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