thanks to the great generosity of benji i have had the chance of experiencing how to tackle this
heater fascia, renew
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
the usual aspect of this part is
it is impossible to repair partially as the paint seems to be badly glued to the aluminium, so any partial repair will be covering the defect but not solving the problem
the first problem is to dissasemble the plastic grille, be very careful to pry out the two lateral plastic clamps
it is impossible to repair partially as the paint seems to be badly glued to the aluminium, so any partial repair will be covering the defect but not solving the problem
the first problem is to dissasemble the plastic grille, be very careful to pry out the two lateral plastic clamps
once dissasembled i tried several ideas to do this, first i realized that the signs were solid aluminium inserts, that means that you can not remove them, but they are easy to mask as there is a separate thing from the fascia
so first i removed old paint chemically, but the base surface is too flat and i intend to reproduce some rugosity, so i sand blasted it protecting the signs
i painted and checked with the actual tone, were four layers
so first i removed old paint chemically, but the base surface is too flat and i intend to reproduce some rugosity, so i sand blasted it protecting the signs
i painted and checked with the actual tone, were four layers
painted with flat black from rustoleum
reassembling the grille
reassembling the grille
Wow. That looks great!
deQ, great job as always, but how come you did not use a wrinkled/crinkled paint to match the original texture?
stphers
Well-Known Member
facia plate
Hi,
Actually the finish is not flat or wrinkle but more of a finish like smother sandpaper. I have powder coated these with a powder from Eastwood called hotrod black or rattle can painted them with a product called " stone " paint by restoleun.
Wrinkl;e is close but not close enough.
My part is trapped in a box of parts that I really don't want to dig out right now. I have experimented with all sorts of paint, powder and ways of doing this but the "stone " finish comes out really good depending on your prep work.
My 2 cents worth.
Thanks, Rick
Hi,
Actually the finish is not flat or wrinkle but more of a finish like smother sandpaper. I have powder coated these with a powder from Eastwood called hotrod black or rattle can painted them with a product called " stone " paint by restoleun.
Wrinkl;e is close but not close enough.
My part is trapped in a box of parts that I really don't want to dig out right now. I have experimented with all sorts of paint, powder and ways of doing this but the "stone " finish comes out really good depending on your prep work.
My 2 cents worth.
Thanks, Rick
thanks bert,
a wrinkle paint would not do the desired effect
a textured aged iron would be interesting to test
the real pattern is irregular a sort of drops not of the same size but the same height
but i feel that the result is good enough
Tierfreund
Well-Known Member
We used to have to replicate a similar structure when we wanted to make something look like plastic (for car hifi installations).
What works with a little practice is to rattle can spray paint it with matte black and make a bad job of it. Meaning: You put a nice smooth layer on it first and then before it fully dries you put another layer on it but hold the nozzle too far away so the paint almost air dries before it hits the part and you put a much too thin layer on it so you get the dimples and the paint has no chance to run into each other to create a smooth surface. You can even vary the texture with a little practice...
What works with a little practice is to rattle can spray paint it with matte black and make a bad job of it. Meaning: You put a nice smooth layer on it first and then before it fully dries you put another layer on it but hold the nozzle too far away so the paint almost air dries before it hits the part and you put a much too thin layer on it so you get the dimples and the paint has no chance to run into each other to create a smooth surface. You can even vary the texture with a little practice...
daddywad
Well-Known Member
That does look very accurate Daddywad. Do you know how this is applied and is it available in a can or quart? I have played around with using GM trunk splatter paint followed by a coat of low sheen black and it seems to have some potential. I forget which forum member suggested this.
daddywad
Well-Known Member
spatter
Hi Bob, its a sprayed then baked finish by a specialist finisher company near me.
I will see if I can get more info on the make etc
mark
Hi Bob, its a sprayed then baked finish by a specialist finisher company near me.
I will see if I can get more info on the make etc
mark
Yeah, that really looks great.
I had mine powder coated then went back and painted the indicator areas with a aluminum paint that matched original.
I had painted my at first with lots of prep time and good primer.
It was not that durable and the slightest little rub or scratch and it was ruined.
Gary
I had painted my at first with lots of prep time and good primer.
It was not that durable and the slightest little rub or scratch and it was ruined.
Gary
DQ I received the package yesterday. Thank you again as well for the surprise. Now on behalf of the rest of us, will you please document the installation?