e brake cable

[billpatterson]

HI!

Seasons greetings!

The e brake cables from WN come with a backing plate mount that is very different from factory! I am unsure whether it mounts like the factory (on the front of the backing plate) OR mounted to the backside of the backing plate? I lean towards factory.

The parts pic from Maximillian Importing suggests the e brake cast mount is disassembled (somehow) and it and new e brake sandwiches the brake mount.

Any advise here is appreciated!

Regards,
Bill

 

[billpatterson]

HI

I have learned the design was sorted for pretty easy maintenance. However a bit costly. I think I have figured out a solution using the original cast block that mounts on the inside of the brake and the new design of the e brake cable and plate that mounts on the backside of the rear hub. See pictures. Basically make a new style block out of the old style block.

-I cut the old e brake cable to remove,
-Punched out the mounting studs (with a nut on to protect threads)
-Cut about 1/2-5/8" off the original block
-Filed flat
-Used a step drill to get the correct inside diameter for the the new e brake cable housing and chamfered
-Pressed in the studs
-Took about 20 minutes

Stay tuned!? I will mount today and do the same for the left side. Fingers crossed but I can't think why this would not work.

Regards,
Bill

Bill Patterson
Edmonton, Alberta

'73 Bavaria, '80 Land Rover Series 2a 109, '71 2002, '74 3.0s, '69 2002
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[billpatterson]

Merry Xmas

Thank you for the feedback and wisdoms!

In my request for hints and tips to reinstall the e brake, I forgot to include that my rear hubs were in place. With the outer diameter of the rear hub being way bigger than the inner diameter of the e brake when assembled on the bench, I quickly learned it has to be reassembled piece by piece! Dooh! Sorry for not mentioning that! Thank goodness the return springs aren't as strong as some drum brakes I've worked on!!

The modified e brake cable mounting block (above) worked out great and saved about $100!!

Regards,
Bill

Ps. I am happy to report that the underside of 'Heidi' is done sans tranny et al. On to the interior... Not sold on Heidi as a name...what have you all named your cars?

 

[David B]

Thanks for the tip Bill. It’s a great idea and could definitely work but I found cutting the original block required more precision than expected, because when I then reamed it out for the new cable there was next to no material left inside to retain the new cable sheath. So I would amend the directions to say …. cut the absolute minimum amount off the existing block (leave as much of the length as possible) so there’s enough length to not compromise the expanded bore. Otherwise like me, you’ll end up buying a new part despite the effort!!

 

[David B]

This photo might illustrate my note above; the flanged opening on the wheel side extends well into the collar, so when you ream out the collar for the new cable mount (from the backside) there isn’t as much material to work with as you think there is. Consequently the 16mm hole that’s required for the new cable bracket ( which I found needed to be about 7mm deep) can meet the funnel diameter and leave no stop end in the new bore for the new bracket collar to ideally work against. I hope what I say is right and makes sense.

 

[billpatterson]

Hi David

I have to report my fix of reaming out the e-brake mounting plate so the e-brake cable and mounting plate sandwich the 'hub' is working great. Dunno how times I have set the e-brake but is working just fine. I have adjusted the e-brake tension a few times; suspect just usual stretch as it has settled down since last adjustment spring 2022.

Bill