Im about to start a renew of my cooling system. 74 cs. I first have an question. I have noticed that when they system is warm the coolant in the reservoir is till cool. Checked hoses at the radiator and they are warm. Is this normal?
Cooling System ? and renew
- Thread starter kys911t
- Start date
Sounds like the small hose from the top of the radiator to the tank is blocked, or where it attaches at either end.
I don't think it's designed to have much flow in that circuit.
That hose should be very warm. Exactly as hot as your upper radiator or hotter.
remove from radiator side and blow through it to verify the tank nipple is not blocked.
Shameless plug- I have some new aluminum radiators now for sale.
I can send you the upgrade water pump pulley part # when I get back in town.
This clocks the pump for more flow.
Don't forget a new fan clutch! Big sale right now....
39 bucks is a great deal!!
11521723027U
at autohausaz:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/make.aspx?sid=zxeif045egjkyd45apl0mtjt
remove from radiator side and blow through it to verify the tank nipple is not blocked.
Shameless plug- I have some new aluminum radiators now for sale.
I can send you the upgrade water pump pulley part # when I get back in town.
This clocks the pump for more flow.
Don't forget a new fan clutch! Big sale right now....
39 bucks is a great deal!!
11521723027U
at autohausaz:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/make.aspx?sid=zxeif045egjkyd45apl0mtjt
Did you run the car with the hose off????
Seldom the hose or tank nipple- usually blocked at the radiator nipple.
Run the car w/o hose, should see a steady stream from nipple at top of radiator.
No stream get a piece of wire and clean it.
Seldom the hose or tank nipple- usually blocked at the radiator nipple.
Run the car w/o hose, should see a steady stream from nipple at top of radiator.
No stream get a piece of wire and clean it.
I tested the flow when I started the bleeding process. I placed the hose from the top of the radiator so that it was upright on the hood and took another hose attached to the reservoir and blew through this hose into to the reservoir until the fluid came out of the hose hooked up to the top of the radiator at a steady stream.
The hose out the bottom of the radiator was also not hot. The temperature rose and then I revved it up and the temperature steadily came back down to 3 o'clock. Thermostat opened? Drove around and all hose are hot. Temp is slightly above 3 at a idle. Goes up if its under load i.e. still in drive but stopped. comes down when moving or placed in n or p and rev.
Do you have a fan clutch?
When the needle is at 3 or hotter can you turn the engine off and watch how long the fan spins?
Do you feel a steady pressure of hot air coming from the fan all the way to the firewall?
When the needle is at 3 or hotter can you turn the engine off and watch how long the fan spins?
Do you feel a steady pressure of hot air coming from the fan all the way to the firewall?
Silly question; did you check the thermostat? If you remove the thermostat-for example- and the tank water gets warm then the problem is probably there. BUT, I like Don's solution too 
I have a completely stock cooling system except the upgraded thermostat housing and the little hole drilled in the thermostat. The radiator is a 2 core with the automatic trans cooling tank left "open" (74 CSa conversion to 5 speed). I just got back from a 2 hour run in the Austin hill country with the A/C blasting and the temp never quite reached 3:00, so all things being equal you should be able to get your system working well. Bleeding is important, but if I can do it-trust me-you can do it. (current outdoor temp about 95 d.)
I have a completely stock cooling system except the upgraded thermostat housing and the little hole drilled in the thermostat. The radiator is a 2 core with the automatic trans cooling tank left "open" (74 CSa conversion to 5 speed). I just got back from a 2 hour run in the Austin hill country with the A/C blasting and the temp never quite reached 3:00, so all things being equal you should be able to get your system working well. Bleeding is important, but if I can do it-trust me-you can do it. (current outdoor temp about 95 d.)
Condition of water pump and or belt tightness?
time to gun the upper, lower radiator hoses and the out put from the head with a laser pyrometer.
Also get a ohmmeter reading of the water temp sensor and check for retarded spark.
Also get a ohmmeter reading of the water temp sensor and check for retarded spark.