"3.0 CSi" Emblem Fastening

[W8MM]

I searched a whole bunch and didn't find what I need. Please be kind ;-)

We replaced the trunk (boot) lid on our '72 CSi because the original was too far gone. When the resto shop returned the car (beautiful work), they couldn't quite figure out what sort of fastener or what captivated the back-side pins on the "3.0" and "CSi" emblems. The holes in the trunk metal are nicely already in the perfect spots as supplied from BMW. The emblem pins don't show any sign of a threaded fastener or "speed nut" having been applied from the first go around. There seem to have been lengths of "clear" heat-shrink tubing or some such having been used as captivation sleeves before, but they're too loose to work now.

Can anybody tell me what is the correct or the "preferred" method is to mount the 3.0 CSi emblem pins into the trunk panel?

 

[JFENG]

Mine has "segmented speed nuts" pressed over the shafts

Mine has "segmented speed nuts" pressed over the shafts of the emblems.
If pushed on far enough, these can provide a bit of tension to keep the emblem tight to the boot lid. BMW also used plastic gromets back in the day, but I don't know if those were correct for E9's

 

[W8MM]

I guess I should remove the emblems from their make-shift attachment and accurately measure the pin outer and mounting-hole inner diameters. By eye, there seems to be quite a bit of "rattle room" for the pins in the body-panel holes ~ maybe the pins are half to two-thirds the diameter of the holes.

It seems like putting speed-nut-like grabbers on the pin shafts would hold well, but might aggravate pinching stresses where the emblem pin makes contact with the painted metal inside the hole. I would worry about starting a rust problem by accident.

I can imagine sort of a plastic or hard-rubber shoulder-washer/grommet that would push through the painted sheet metal hole and then require the emblem pin to be pushed through it. Everything would have to be exactly the right size for this to work correctly, but it seems more rust-proof. However, until someone can point out a good part number, it remains my fantasy.

 

[HB Chris]

The fastener is clear plastic with a brass insert that has six or eight flower-like petals. It fits in the hole from the outside, pins are then pushed into it expanding the petals.

 

[Stefan]

Please add some pics of your emblems.
My emblems had been on and off several times in the past so I put some really small screws from inside to expand the pins towards the holes.

I guess I should remove the emblems from their make-shift attachment and accurately measure the pin outer and mounting-hole inner diameters. By eye, there seems to be quite a bit of "rattle room" for the pins in the body-panel holes ~ maybe the pins are half to two-thirds the diameter of the holes.

It seems like putting speed-nut-like grabbers on the pin shafts would hold well, but might aggravate pinching stresses where the emblem pin makes contact with the painted metal inside the hole. I would worry about starting a rust problem by accident.

I can imagine sort of a plastic or hard-rubber shoulder-washer/grommet that would push through the painted sheet metal hole and then require the emblem pin to be pushed through it. Everything would have to be exactly the right size for this to work correctly, but it seems more rust-proof. However, until someone can point out a good part number, it remains my fantasy.

 

[Gernstetter]

Please add some pics of your emblems.
My emblems had been on and off several times in the past so I put some really small screws from inside to expand the pins towards the holes.

originally the pins were hammered to separate them to a tight fit, at least that is what i was told...ordered the correct parts from a dealer in London that are plastic and basically worthless....if not going for absolute originality, you can gently tape the emblems to the trunk and apply clear silicone underneath...if done with some care is not noticeable at all, and then when you want to remove them once a year or so to wax the car, no problem to separate them and redo the silicone process.....mine have been on the car this way for a year with no problems....the plastic pieces are not very easy to get off, and this way there is no metal on metal with the speed nut or other type of holder....for what it's worth.....just leave the tape on for a couple of days while the silicone sets.