3.5l Euro L Block

I have a 3.5l euro L block with 93mm bore and seem to recall being told that by using a different crankshaft the displacement would increase to 3.7l. Is this correct and which crankshaft? Anything else need to be changed? I have the feeling I would have to ID the exisitng crank for anyone to answer so this might have to wait. Can I ID the crank through the oil pan or timing case cover?

I would do this as part of a refresh and head work project but stick with the existing pistons.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Doug

IIRC, a crank out of a B35

It depends on how close you want to get to 3.7L. The B35 crank will get you to (as I recall) ~3.65L. The true stroker M30 crank was used on the E3 3.3Li. That crank had the longest M30 stroke of any engine aside from the S38B38, and I am not sure the S38 and M30 cranks are interchangeable.

To use a stroker crank, you have to use the crank as a minimum. You can then go custom rods or pistons depending on your choice. You need to use custom rods or custom pistons due to potential deck height issues, unless you can find 3.3Li rods to go with the crank. Even then you would probably need custom pistons to suit the M90 bore.

If you just want to sub in a B35 crank, you need to use B35 rods with the stock M90 pistons, as I recall. You may need to go with custom pistons due to deck height issues. I haven't done this mod myself so I can't say for sure.

In terms of identifying the crank, I think I remember seeing identification markings on one of the crankshaft counterweights. It was cast directly on the part.

Thanks for this - very helpful. I sounds like I'm going to have to change more than just the crank so not what I was hoping for.

Doug

Doug,

Are there any issues/concerns when adding a stroker crank that the piston rings will be traveling lower along the old cylinder walls into an area that is not worn the same as the original ring wear? That is, is there a ridge at the bottom of the old ring stroke that would cause problems?

Sven: I'm not an expert but I would only do something like this as part of a refresh or rebuild of the short block at the very least if not the whole long block. Too many possible issues as your question suggest with wear grooves even though my engine is quite low mileage (44,000 mi). I was hoping that nothing else had to be changed along with the crank (proves the "not an expert" qualifier) so this probably won't happen - just the refresh and some other fun stuff.

Doug