Orangener
Well-Known Member
A colleague from Geramany did this conversion, the pictures are taken from 2 different cars:
Pneumatic hood lift
- Thread starter Orangener
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84E24
Well-Known Member
Pneumatic hoodlift
How does everyone feel about UPGRADING to the pneumatic hoodlifts?
The welds just ripped the thin tubeingfrom my support and I need to decide to replace with the orginal or the upgrade ....
Orangener, looks like there were new brackets in other than stock locations made for the change. Do you know if any effort put into using existing mounting locations?
Thanks,
Steve
How does everyone feel about UPGRADING to the pneumatic hoodlifts?
The welds just ripped the thin tubeingfrom my support and I need to decide to replace with the orginal or the upgrade ....
Orangener, looks like there were new brackets in other than stock locations made for the change. Do you know if any effort put into using existing mounting locations?
Thanks,
Steve
Orangener
Well-Known Member
Every position of the brackets was welded on new places by the owner !
But dont ask me where he did it (or what type of dampers he had used).
You have to construct it yourself.....
But dont ask me where he did it (or what type of dampers he had used).
You have to construct it yourself.....
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
I like the M88/S38 in there more than the hood shocks.
JhwShark
Well-Known Member
To each his own but why change? A new hood bar is $130 and requires no welding and will last another 35 years. I replaced mine last year, it has to be tensioned/loaded before it can be installed but went in very easily.
tochi
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jmackro
Well-Known Member
Plus, the way the hood aligns to body along all four of its seams is very sensitive to the loads on it. I.e., the hood is quite flexible.
Changing the loads from the support mechanism - even just replacing an old, weak torsion assembly with a new, stiff one, will change how the hood aligns. So, converting to gas struts will no doubt change your hood alignment too. Maybe it will make it better, but things seldom go in that direction for me!
Chris: I'm not sure I agree with your comment about the new support going in "very easily". But still, I agree that it would be easier to replace a factory support than to engineer and install a gas strut system.
Jay,
The only difficulty I had was tensioning the torsion bar itself which I did on the ground by bolting a bar to the end and then pulling the arm. Once that was done mine bolted right in.
The only difficulty I had was tensioning the torsion bar itself which I did on the ground by bolting a bar to the end and then pulling the arm. Once that was done mine bolted right in.
Any chance you could repost these photos since Photobucket has now made them blurred?
I am trying to do this to my hood.
I am trying to do this to my hood.
A colleague from Geramany did this conversion, the pictures are taken from 2 different cars:
DONE IT 19" LONG
THIS DOES WORK yet it does move the hood forward a bit on the strut side
as the hood is easy to tweak. it does work well for my s38 and lays flat when closed
so its necessary to leave a good gap at the front
which is the way oem is anyway
THIS DOES WORK yet it does move the hood forward a bit on the strut side
as the hood is easy to tweak. it does work well for my s38 and lays flat when closed
so its necessary to leave a good gap at the front
which is the way oem is anyway
Last edited:
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
it's gotta be interesting to compute the correct geometry for the fender side mount point. Easier with the engine out....
Have to know the compressed and extended lengths of the strut proposed, have to consider the forces on the hood, which want to be minimized but not zero when the hood is open...
Have to know the compressed and extended lengths of the strut proposed, have to consider the forces on the hood, which want to be minimized but not zero when the hood is open...
Yes, this is way above my pay grade.
I got a strut that is very close to the length of one of the other posts about this. 22" +-
To use the mounting hole already in the hood the strut is too long and it won't go down far enough for the hood to close.
I bought another strut way back that has a locking pin. When it is open a pin falls in a hole and it locks. Have to pull knob to release pin for strut to compress.
Ideal for a safety reason and also so your hood won't blow down. This strut is a 40 lb unit. It would be fine but won't go all the way down.
I think I weighed the hood before I put it back on and it was around 60-70lbs.
I have struts that are in the 40lb lift category.
The difficult thing is trying to figure out a way to compress the strut so you can see that length.
I think I'm going to have to make up something with some dowels and a pipe and that simulates the strut and I can then try different lengths and positions to find what will work.
Gary
I got a strut that is very close to the length of one of the other posts about this. 22" +-
To use the mounting hole already in the hood the strut is too long and it won't go down far enough for the hood to close.
I bought another strut way back that has a locking pin. When it is open a pin falls in a hole and it locks. Have to pull knob to release pin for strut to compress.
Ideal for a safety reason and also so your hood won't blow down. This strut is a 40 lb unit. It would be fine but won't go all the way down.
I think I weighed the hood before I put it back on and it was around 60-70lbs.
I have struts that are in the 40lb lift category.
The difficult thing is trying to figure out a way to compress the strut so you can see that length.
I think I'm going to have to make up something with some dowels and a pipe and that simulates the strut and I can then try different lengths and positions to find what will work.
Gary
DO IT JUST AS SHOWN ITS 19" SEIBILUS
I HAVE AN EXTRA YOU CAN HAVE
I HAVE AN EXTRA YOU CAN HAVE