Don't forget the heat gun, must be warm to touch or paint may crack. I heated for 5-10 minutes. Bend only a little at a time and reapply heat during process. A little less than 10:00 to 2:00 on the fender should do it.
if you add another 1/2" of wheel width, call it 12.7mm ... divide by 2 and you get 6.35mm ... add to 11 and you get an offset of ET-17 / ET-18 ... no idea if you can find a wheel that size.
let me rethink this - i had a conflicting response.I may be wrong but wouldn't you want to deduct the 6.35mm rather than add? By adding it a higher offset with the additional wheel width will bring it that much closer to the struts and possibly rub.
if you leave it at ET-11 (11mm positive offset from center) ... and make the wheel wider, then the wheel would move closer to the strut. if you increase the positive offset then you move the wheel away from the strut.
yes, as i reread my response that you quoted it showed that i had a conflict in my statement - reread what how i edited my previous response - the first part was correct, the 2nd part was wrongPositive offset moves the wheel towards the strut and negative offset moves the wheel out towards the fender. This I am certain of.
Many thanks for your help. my car original wheels are 7jx14 which I am not sure but have read has an ET of 11. so for front having adding half an inch or 12 mm i shall order wheels as 7.5jx16 with ETR 6.
for back i shall opt for 8jx16 with ET of 0. am i right?
nope ... 8" is ET-24 ... 7.5 is ET 18. if you do what you are proposing the wheel will be sticking outside of the fender wellMany thanks for your help. my car original wheels are 7jx14 which I am not sure but have read has an ET of 11. so for front having adding half an inch or 12 mm i shall order wheels as 7.5jx16 with ETR 6.
for back i shall opt for 8jx16 with ET of 0. am i right?
Be sure to have your inner fender lips rolled. ET11 with unrolled fenders will gouge the tire sidewall on the outer edge of the tread.