Speedometer removal?

m_thompson

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My odometer doesn't work in warm weather so I would like to get it fixed before spring driving weather. I read some instructions that I found on a Coupe site and it looked like removing it wouldn't be that much of a job. The instructions in the BMW manual are really vague so they were not much help.

Following the printed instructions, removed the covers below the dash, disconnected the speedo cable, loostened the knurled nuts and rotated the spedo. It is loose from the back of the gauge cluster, but there is no way it will come out. There just isn't enough room between the dash, steering column, and sheet metal.

I continued loostening the knurled nuts and have the multifunction guage, speedo, and tach detached from the back of gauge cluster.

I reread the BMW instructions. I removed the two nuts on the left of the dash and the screw below the nuts. The left top of the gauge cluster is a little loose, but the bottom left is stuck fast.

The rest of the vague BMW instructions say to remove the center storage compartment and the heater controls. I haven't had the center console apart in 25 years so my memory of the procedure is a little foggy. I took the three big screws out of the side panels so the AC panel is loose.

It looks like I need to remove the rear window switches and AC panel to get at the heater control.

I can't believe that it is really this much work to remove the speedo!

I guess that I should fix the clock and replace the bulbs while I have
everything apart.

What else do I need to do?
 

Bill Riblett

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If you have the other instruments loose, you will be able to get the speedo out. It takes me a while to figure out exactly how to turn it, but it will come out.

I find it easiest to take the driver seat out, so I can lie on the floor on my back. Having a decent light helps too and LEDs are great because they don't get real hot.
 

HB Chris

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speedo

Once you remove the combo instrument it gets easier. But loosening the nuts holding the cowl and pulling it towards you a tiny bit, I had enough room to twist the speedo around to an angle that it would slide out to the left. Good luck.
 

m_thompson

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I removed the nut on the left of the cluster, the nut at the left of the cowl, and the screw at the left of the cowl. I can lift the left of the cowl a bit. I can wiggle the top left of the cluster about 1 mm. I can't move the bottom left of the cluster at all. It seems like there is something holding the bottom left of the cluster to the dash.

What about removing the clock?
 

shanon

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Removing the clock does give you better access to the speedo bits.

Overall, removing guages is a major PITA. Suggest replacing/upgrading to brighter bulbs and cleaning the gauge's connector spade tabs while your at it.

good luck
-shanon
 

jhjacobs

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A few more notes:

Be careful with the cowl - it has long screws going into the back. The only way to get it out is to remove the entire console to access the screws. Removing the nuts should let is flex up and side to side a bit.

There should be nothing holding the speedo in but the speedo cable and the bulbs. The bulbs will simply pull out and the speedo cable should come off with a quarter CCW turn (and very small hands / fingers needed). The speedo cable only has about 1/4 inch of slack if that. My speedo appeared to be also oldered to back plate but I was able to break it free with some gentle persuasion (rocking).

The entire console should actually come out as easily as the speedo. There two additional nuts (inside of the cowl nuts) that hold it in place. Hopefully they are finger tight only. You must pop the speedo cable and drop the steering column (for bolts hidden under bottom cover. You should be able to pull it out far enough to reach around and pop the cable harness loose (single connection point) If you have removed the two nuts and it doesn't want to move it is most like stuck to the leather / vinyl material on the bottom (spilled coke might do this as will 30 years of sitting there). It may also be embedded into the cowl. I found that my cowl had to be flexed just a bit to get the cluster out - I had to pull one side out a bit to get the rest to follow. The threaded rod that the nuts go on will flex a bit.

Good luck.
 

jhjacobs

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I usually remove the upper bolts and loosen the lower bolts about 6 turns. This will let the column drop about 4-6 inches. I think they are under the bottom metal cover but they may be lower cover.
 

m_thompson

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OK, I got the spedometer out without removing the console and heater controls. The left side of the cluster was stuck on the threads of the mounting stud. All it took was a good pull and it came loose. With the left side pulled out about 1/2" I got the spedometer out. I will send it off to North Hollywood Spedometer this week.

Well, the clock has never worked. Since I have it this far dissasembled I though that I might fix that too. I haven't had the console out in 25 years so I forgot the drill. The manual shows removing screws under the rear window switches, under the radio, and on the sides. I have all of those out, but the console is stuck. What did I miss?
 

m_thompson

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I got the speedometer back from North Hollywood Speedometer. They did a very nice job but it makes the rest of my gauges look shabby.

I have all of the guages back in, but I can't get to the nuts that hold the top right of the speedo and the top left of the tach.

I decided to take the guage cluster out so I can get to the nuts. I have the console out. The heater controls are partially removed and pushed to the right. I can see the screw that holds the hood over the guages in place. I think that I can get to the nut that holds the right side of the guage cluster in place.

This is nothing like the description in the BMW manual.

Do I need to take the front part of the dash off, the lip?
 

m_thompson

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I have the clock out and repaired. The fuse was blown.

Since the guage cluster removal procedure is nothing like what is described in the BMW manual I will take pictures and write up the procedure.
 

chicane

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Along these same lines was is that secondary smaller cable next to the speedo cable and how do you remove it from the speedo?
 

pmansson

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That´s the trip meter reset wire. It ends up in the small compartment for fuses, relays and more. There it should mount on a small, triangular plate at 90 degrees to the cover.
By turning the knob, you reset the trip meter.

At the speedo end it will easily pop out if you insert a very small screwdriver and pry carefully. You can also use a pair of pliers to turn and pull the white base.
Make sure to insert it back in place BEFORE reinstalling the speedo!! as it is a real bummer to do afterwards (which I had to do once when I´d forgotten it!!)

Yes, you will want to send off all 4 instruments as you realized yourself. The main benefit is probably the cleaning of the inside of the 4 glass covers. The cleaning, oiling, greasing, controlling of the internals is also well deserved after 35 years of use. The clocks come back to life which is nice too.

4W bulbs make a change too. Actually 3 is probably the best bet, but I haven´t found any. I will go back to 2W on the turning indicator (blinker) bulb at the bottom of the speedo as I find the light too strong even on sunny days. Just make sure to keep the rheostat control at minimum unless you need full power for night driving.
 

chicane

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That´s the trip meter reset wire. It ends up in the small compartment for fuses, relays and more. There it should mount on a small, triangular plate at 90 degrees to the cover.
By turning the knob, you reset the trip meter.

At the speedo end it will easily pop out if you insert a very small screwdriver and pry carefully. You can also use a pair of pliers to turn and pull the white base.
Make sure to insert it back in place BEFORE reinstalling the speedo!! as it is a real bummer to do afterwards (which I had to do once when I´d forgotten it!!)

Yes, you will want to send off all 4 instruments as you realized yourself. The main benefit is probably the cleaning of the inside of the 4 glass covers. The cleaning, oiling, greasing, controlling of the internals is also well deserved after 35 years of use. The clocks come back to life which is nice too.

4W bulbs make a change too. Actually 3 is probably the best bet, but I haven´t found any. I will go back to 2W on the turning indicator (blinker) bulb at the bottom of the speedo as I find the light too strong even on sunny days. Just make sure to keep the rheostat control at minimum unless you need full power for night driving.


Thanks. That worked.
 

HB Chris

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Instruments

No need to remove the dash. I got all of mine out by starting with the combo instrument, then the speedo, then the clock, the tach was last. I loosened two screws holding the hood but it barely moved. I still had room to take everything out by twisting, turning and occassionally cursing. The two screws that are hardest to reach when reinstalling I simply tightened before putting the instruments back in, testing until they would be snug with a slight twist then tightened the lower screws. Replace all bulbs too.

If you have the center console out (and it is a US model), replace the two tiny light bulbs at each end that illuminate the heater controls.
 

pmansson

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Those 1.2W lamps come in all cars, Euro specs included.
While at it; blow the dust out from light channels and all other hidden areas now revealed.
They haven´t seen daylight in 35 years and collected dust for just as long.....
 
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