1972 BMW 3.0 CSi - $35000 in central austin

HB Chris

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The eBay coupes keep repeating because once the buyer sees it in person he backs out since they aren't represented truthfully.

I will take a stab at values:

Rusty Parts Car with good parts $5K

Rusty Parts Car with excellent parts $10K

Driver with repairable rust that needs everything $20K

Driver with little rust but needs paint and interior $25K

Solid chassis needing only paint and interior $30K

Restored car with older repaint, decent interior $35K

Restored car with recent paint and interior, VG condition $45K and up

Restored car with excellent paint and interior, engine upgrades, needs nothing, $60K and up

Concours coupe $80K and up!

I have seen and inspected many, many coupes and these rising prices even surprise me sometimes. Yes, there are coupes that can be found for less from an unaware seller who doesn't understand what the market is doing but these are hard to find obviously. And I am aware of private sales that go for even more.
 

Gernstetter

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The eBay coupes keep repeating because once the buyer sees it in person he backs out since they aren't represented truthfully.

I will take a stab at values:

Rusty Parts Car with good parts $5K

Rusty Parts Car with excellent parts $10K

Driver with repairable rust that needs everything $20K

Driver with little rust but needs paint and interior $25K

Solid chassis needing only paint and interior $30K

Restored car with older repaint, decent interior $35K

Restored car with recent paint and interior, VG condition $45K and up

Restored car with excellent paint and interior, engine upgrades, needs nothing, $60K and up

Concours coupe $80K and up!

I have seen and inspected many, many coupes and these rising prices even surprise me sometimes. Yes, there are coupes that can be found for less from an unaware seller who doesn't understand what the market is doing but these are hard to find obviously. And I am aware of private sales that go for even more.

Here are the 2014 prices per ADAC and some other journals in Germany...

Condition One....basically a perfect car in every way or a very pampered original car with zero rust and all corrrect original parts....40,000 euros or roughly $56,000 USD

Condition Two....a very nice restoration, virtually correct in every way but not perfect, usually a car with new paint, but no detailing in the engine bay or as they say....downstairs under the car....somewhere around 24,000 euros, or again with an exchange rate of 1.4, about $33,600, again, NO RUST.....the inspectors are brutal about looking for rust on oldtimers over here.

Condition Three.....somewhere around 16,000 euros, or $22,400.....body work sort of OK....some non-original parts, extra crap like aftermarket speakers and stereos.....holes in door panels for same (one thing that drives me absolutely NUTS), somewhat dirty engine bay, etc. etc. etc.

Condition Four.....about 12,000 euros, has real problems, will not pass TUV inspection without some serious body work, questionable mechanicals, missing parts, etc.....or roughly $16,800

Condition Five....a real life project, a real rusty car with lots of missing parts, typically a parts car or something that will require lots of time and money to restore or at least get on the road with a passing inspection....somewhere around 6-10 thousand USD...

Hope this helps....the numbers just recently came out and they are very accurate....if anything, cars with appraisals that get these ratings sell for about 10 to 20% more than the appraisal, as the inspectors are typically conservative in their numbers.....all appraised cars data are submitted for these collective reports....prices rose by about 20% in the past year throughout the BMW classic range....regards Rob
 

HB Chris

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Rob,

Just like the price guides here those values are extremely understated or perhaps they just reflect a European perspective on their value, certainly not accurate for the US market.

Chris
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Tomorrow morning should be interesting: Greg is bringing the white BMW 3.0 CSa to my warehouse for a thorough look under her skirt. Greg is truly interested in cars in general and is very anxious to learn about the coupe. He seems open to all comments and hopefully we can set a fair price with a good representation of its condition. I will do my best to describe the state of the car accurately is all I can say. luckily for me I picked up my friends car this morning so I will have 2 in the warehouse tomorrow.
 

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Gernstetter

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Rob,

Just like the price guides here those values are extremely understated or perhaps they just reflect a European perspective on their value, certainly not accurate for the US market.

Chris

There are more of them here, simple supply and demand.....someone should come over here and pick up a few cars, the arbitrage will evaporate at some point...my car after restoration cost about half what folks are spending in the USA for nice but not perfect original cars.....
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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INSPECTED THE WHITE 3.0CSA.

Hi All, I spent about an hour going over the white 3.0 CSA this morning, and I found it to be a very solid car. It has spent its life between CA and TX, and was purchased by a woman in 74 and owned since then by her. There was some flaky rust between the rear shock towers on the trunk floor, but could be scraped away revealing solid metal underneath. The front strut mounts were solid, and all the factory seams were there and there was no rust really. The interior is very salvageable and ALL the parts are there and in what I would consider Very good shape. I'll post some pictures but I think we have a price of 18K though I'm waiting for confirmation. I just wanted to post this information incase there were any interested parties. I have no interest in the sale but would be happy to help. I will not make or receive anything from any part of the deal, but really would like to see this car get a nice home- it could make someone very happy in my opinion. The repaint, although not a factory color would last for a few years if someone wanted to do all the mechanicals first. It is VERY STOCK other than the paint and the wheels and the paint was not a cheap job-but something that could use improvement when someones budget was ready.
 

BMW Pete

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Prices

Chris

Very good "stab" at values, I would say you are spot on. There are always outliers, but in general this is pretty reflective of the market in the US.

Talking about cars in Europe and elsewhere, while I do think the prices can be less, often these cars are ridden hard and put away wet, not always, but certainly more than they often are here. Also, in my experience, the great original ( I know very rare) cars or properly restored cars in Germany or elsewhere are all the money, these guys are true collectors, they know what they have and they want real money for them.

Also the CSLs have risen a great deal in the last few years, a CS/CSI that has the same beautiful lines and one that has been modernized/restored is now considered a valuable play thing.

We have all waited a long time for the market to understand or love these E9s as we do and we have all heard the comparisons with some very ordinary Porsches, but when you have 911S's making six figures, I think a fully restored and sorted E9 is still great value.

I hope this continues and we see more and more people restore these cars, to date it has been for the love of them, but now the spend can almost be justified…….not that anybody ever gets everything back from a proper restoration:-(

Remember I am generalizing because it is generally true, not always.





I don't know how to do the quote thing…….. comments from Chris below.


The eBay coupes keep repeating because once the buyer sees it in person he backs out since they aren't represented truthfully.

I will take a stab at values:

Rusty Parts Car with good parts $5K

Rusty Parts Car with excellent parts $10K

Driver with repairable rust that needs everything $20K

Driver with little rust but needs paint and interior $25K

Solid chassis needing only paint and interior $30K

Restored car with older repaint, decent interior $35K

Restored car with recent paint and interior, VG condition $45K and up

Restored car with excellent paint and interior, engine upgrades, needs nothing, $60K and up

Concours coupe $80K and up!
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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I think Chris is much more knowledgeable than I in all aspects of the e9 so I would hesitate to in any way argue with his valuation below. The reason I would come in lower on most of the lines is that- for better or worse- I have had some experience with Mustangs, Porsches and, well just a "dogs breakfast" of cars and I really feel that the driving experience and the owning experience is where the value in these cars lies. So when we talk about a "solid driver" that to me would indicate a car with its suspension, steering, brakes, etc, all either up-graded or renewed. In such a case the prices mentioned by Chris would probably hold up as I think the parts alone under my car probably ran about 10K. From my experience-limited- what I find is that if one of these e9's has not been "restored" then the suspension etc has not been touched- thus my lower valuation:

Rusty Parts Car with good parts $5K
(in this case it's easy to make a judgment- what would the parts sell for on the forum)- that's simple math: could one make a profit for their time dismantling the parts AND provide a valuable service to other enthusiasts without taking advantage.

Rusty Parts Car with excellent parts $10K
(in this case it's easy to make a judgment- what would the parts sell for on the forum)- that's simple math: could one make a profit for their time dismantling the parts AND provide a valuable service to other enthusiasts without taking advantage.


Driver with repairable rust that needs everything $20K
The reason I feel this is too high is that to put it into "solid driving condition" it would take probably 10K in parts and a 6-10K paint job plus whatever structural repair was necessary. And I'm not counting labor-so assuming someone else does the job you would end up with a "Restored car with recent paint and interior, VG condition". To make it worth $45K you would have to start with a much lower starting price- IMO-

Driver with little rust but needs paint and interior $25K
OK, agreed, but I think there would be 10K in "under-car" work necessary to make this price work. Bringing the sales price to 15K

Solid chassis needing only paint and interior $30K
Paint 10K, interior 3K, undercar renew 5K (we're starting with a more solid car). We're up to 50K and we have not done the 5 speed conversion on any of these. I think we need to start much lower.

Restored car with older repaint, decent interior $35K
This might be close but it would depend on how "restored" it is-or was- since the repaint was older. I think you could start at 35Kbut work down for any parts that were not replaced or renewed- even the bloody headlights will set you back a couple hundred dollars.

Restored car with recent paint and interior, VG condition $45K and up
This sounds close, probably a very good price provided everything was done correctly. It's really hard to nail down the term "restored".

Restored car with excellent paint and interior, engine upgrades, needs nothing, $60K and up
The category above and this category might need to be combined and put at 45-60K because the 15K difference would be in the extent of the restoration, ie- rotisserie or less.

Concours coupe $80K and up!
I would believe this! And if I had the money I would like to buy one:)

Summery: these cars are very hard to "e-Valuate" because we don't (yet) have a standard for what everything means. I hope to be of some use to the forum by at least putting together a guide that can be refined by our members. I wish I could devote more time to it so please be patient with me. I have lots of solid examples and I do want to make this a guide that is easy to upgrade as "time-value" starts to play a bigger part.

Hoping not to sound like someone who thinks he knows more than he does.

Peter
 

Carmen

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Peter,

If a restored car has a 3.5l, 5 speed, LSD, do you add another $10K to your prices below?
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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I would like to ask sfDon for a comment on this one- since he's much better versed at drivetrain upgrades- now we see how convoluted the valuations can get. For a "mathematical" response I would say we could take the valuations below- if accurate- and take the price of the engine and LSD and subtract the price of a standard 3.0/open rear, then add that to the price and you would have a more accurate valuation, so if the engine was 5K and the LSD was 1K then subtract the price of a standard 3.0 and open differential and the difference could be added to the grid. Again, IMO we can not count labor costs because the buyer does not care if the upgrade was done for free or if it costs 10K to do it.

Regarding the conversion to 5 speed, I think we have built that into the valuation already, not that there is anything necessarily wrong with automatics, but these automatics are particularly poor and any "driver" would necessitate an upgrade- again- that's an opinion of mine and could be argued.

In any case, I would love to give your car a spin- sounds like fun!
 

Ohmess

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She's mine!

Hi All -- With help from Peter, Chris and others, I bought this car.

In an effort to give back to those who may seek to acquire an e9 in the future, I thought I would post some additional information on the car. I wanted to post not only information on the car's condition, but also information on what I plan to do with a relatively rust free, intact coupe. I don't want to dissuade folks from seeking to buy one of these cars, but potential buyers should have a clear view of what they are undertaking.

Here is a summary that Peter put together:

We took out the back seats, dropped the glove box, pulled the front and rear carpet and the blocks in the front wheel wells, all factory seams were clear and clean. There are 4 rust spots. One on the passengers door at the top where the trim scratched the paint when it was put on, we got behind the door cards and there were no bondo holes and no rust at the bottom of the doors.

The driver’s floor where the large drain hole is had scraped on the bottom pushing it up about ½ inch. It looked clear from the bottom but when we pulled the tar mat up there was some rust but it was isolated to the square area that is depressed, everything above was original paint. There were a couple pencil diameter holes there but nothing bad-very isolated. The crease under the rear seats where the seat riser meets the floor was clean, had a little flaking, but nothing to speak of. Under rear seats was factory fresh.

Area behind rear seat sheet metal in the trunk had some flaky rust, where the 3 drain holes are. We scraped and scraped and no holes – needs a wire brush and POR-15. Tank area and spare wheel well was perfect.

Rear outer rocker cover had some rust, got scared, pulled it up, factory fresh underneath- all the way down.

Very Very solid car. Lived in CA and Austin.

Runs good, needs a better tune up- timing is a bit advanced and needs an exhaust system- (lots of little holes), also could use a new rear U-joint. Fastest rear windows I’ve ever come across! Does not impress 24 yr. old girls at Starbucks, even though we spent a while trying to convince them of its beauty. (I think they were distracted by our manliness).

*******

Based on our inspection, and taking into account my particular tastes in these cars, here is the list of stuff I plan to do over the next 18 months or so:

· Exhaust
· Fuse block replace
· Light switch wiring
· Battery connector replace
· Corrosion in starter wiring
· Solenoid/starter pull and clean
· Battery ground
· Relays - clean contacts
· Trunk light connection is loose
· Pull stereo wiring
· Check wiring grommets, etc.
· Nardi steering wheel
· Replace fuel lines
· Fuel tank top seal
· Replace vacuum hoses
· Engine bay molding/seal replace
· A/c evaporator bushings/supports broken
· Belts
· Replace all hoses; tstat (Upgrade? w/tstat housing); water pump;
· Air cleaner o ring missing
· Rear brakes (pads and rotors)
· Rebuild calipers
· Gas pedal broken
· Fluids
· Wipers
· Fuel filter?
· Air filters
· Wash/clay/polish
· Trim clean up
· POR 15 front windshield motor area
· POR 15 trunk floor
· POR 15 floor boards
· POR 15 spare tire well
· Clean up and patch underbody
· Straighten rocker seams and POR 15
· Sound deadening
· Stereo head unit shifter trim piece loose
· Window switches (2?)
· Seats - pull and treat; lubricate
· Replace front seats (Classic Car Seats?)
· Carpets clean
· Three point seat belt?
· A/c vent broken driver’s side
· Dif reinforcement
· Front strut bar
· Rear bumper bent
· Rear dent??
· Alpina wheels (roll fenders)
· Door cards: clean, replace clips, chrome strips?
· Door pulls: match arms, reinforce, shiny trim on top?
· Windshield rock chip repair – buy a spare now
· Visor clip holders
· 5 sp conversion
· Hood roundel
· Door lock pulls
· Light surrounds – replace painted ones
· Front grill – black center
· Dash ctr section crack?
· Treat wood trim
· Bumper lights don’t match
· Stalk switches (possible to move blinker to left side?)
· Pertronix
· Oil filter cover
· Expansion tank
· Carl Nelson springs
· Camber plates
· Do I have Bilsteins all around?
· Front sway bar
· Rear sway bar bushings replace
· Subframe bushing reinforce
· Tool kit
· Spare tire
· Jack is missing

******

The white lady is a very well preserved example. Fluids, belts, hoses and the melted fuse block caused by a hack stereo installation into the light switch with an oversized fuse are the only immediate issues. The rest will be part of a rolling restoration.

Obviously, I do most of my own work, which helps with the expense. I wanted to post this in the hope that this information, along with the pricing stuff posted above, will potentially help prospective buyers.
 

m73

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Congrats

You sound very happy with the car, glad it's working out for you....time to get some miles under your belt and enjoy coupe ownership!

-M
 
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