Original Purolator Oil filter question

GolfBavaria

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So, one of the items that came with my Bav was the original Purolator Oil filter. Still has a lot of the paint, the roundel is very clear and so is the lettering, Purolator, etc. The filter fits inside as opposed to the modern ones that just screw on to the motor. The motor where the filter that is on it now has a reducing thread metal washer of sorts (fairly large diameter) to accommodate new oil filters. The reducing thread washer (probably not correct name for it but hopefully you know what I am talking about) when pulled out, will not accommodate the original Oil filter and does not work with it on either as it is used to accommodate the new filters. I'm missing the male end I believe that screws or attaches up into the motor. Does somebody know what I am talking about and if so, do you have a part number, does it just screw on? And a source and name of the part would be great. Thank you in advance for shedding any light on the subject. Do most of you run those original style oil filters or have a lot of you switch to what is on there now. I want to stay as original as possible.
 

lloyd

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So, one of the items that came with my Bav was the original Purolator Oil filter. Still has a lot of the paint, the roundel is very clear and so is the lettering, Purolator, etc. The filter fits inside as opposed to the modern ones that just screw on to the motor. The motor where the filter that is on it now has a reducing thread metal washer of sorts (fairly large diameter) to accommodate new oil filters. The reducing thread washer (probably not correct name for it but hopefully you know what I am talking about) when pulled out, will not accommodate the original Oil filter and does not work with it on either as it is used to accommodate the new filters. I'm missing the male end I believe that screws or attaches up into the motor. Does somebody know what I am talking about and if so, do you have a part number, does it just screw on? And a source and name of the part would be great. Thank you in advance for shedding any light on the subject. Do most of you run those original style oil filters or have a lot of you switch to what is on there now. I want to stay as original as possible.



I am having trouble following your narrative. There is probably no consensus regarding which filter everyone prefers. Each has its pros and cons. Regarding originality, it's the red canister with a bolt that enters the bottom of the canister that I think you are describing. Hint: a picture may be worth 1000 words.

It is a common practice to install a later updated version of the oil filter housing (top bolt). (Second image) If, as you suggest, you have a spin-on adapter or spin-on assembly, the (probably red) housing is not much use to you other than as a desk ornament or momento. Speaking only for myself, while a a spin on adapter is definitely not original, it may be more desirable to anyone who likes to frequently service his engine.


Best of luck.
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jmackro

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Summarizing what Lloyd wrote and referring to the great photos he posted, was your engine was converted to:

- The later BMW canister filter assembly with the bolt inserting down from the top (1st photo)?

or

- An aftermarket, spin-on adapter (2nd - 4th photos)?

Trying to decode what you wrote (yea, a photo would have clarified things), I'm guessing that you have a spin-on adapter, and need the bolt that comes up from the bottom.

GolfBavaria said:
Do most of you run those original style oil filters or have a lot of you switch to what is on there now. I want to stay as original as possible.

I haven't done a survey, but I think most people have stuck with the canister-style filter, either using the original e9/3 style (bolt up from the bottom, dribbles oil when you remove it), or the later BMW style (bolt down from the top, like in Lloyd's first photo). Personally, I have had problems with the type of spin-on adapter shown in Lloyd's third photo. The smooth surface doesn't grip the square O ring on the spin-on filter, allowing the ring to blow out when the temperature is low and oil pressure high.
 
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GolfBavaria

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Thank you both very much! Jay that is exactly what happened the other day. That is why I want to go back to the original Purolator. Sorry, I know that was confusing the way I was trying to describe it and yes a picture is worth a thousand jumbled words. The assembly on there now is the second from the bottom exactly. I thought I had bolt 15 from the top illustration but I don't think there was anything to screw it into was the problem. I will take a picture of all the parts i have and maybe you can tell me what I need. I won't be able to do that right now so I will get back to this. Thanks again to be continued.
 

GolfBavaria

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I thought once I took the other adapter off for the modern filter that the bolt would screw up into the female portion of #4 above. I had the proper filter, the spring, the bottom bolt but it didn't seem to have anything to screw into. So that is why I thought I needed some other adapter or something to go back to original.
 

Stevehose

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If it is like the 2 spin on's I've had on my coupes (I like them), you'll have to unscrew the double threaded pipe piece out of the spin on disk base plate, this goes back into the original filter housing base. It had to be swapped over when fitting the spin on adapter.
 

GolfBavaria

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Ok, I will try that although I thought we also tried that already. Although I don't see that reducing thread in the second picture from the bottom in the illustration for the original Purolator.
 
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GolfBavaria

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I should be able to start my build thread tomorrow so I will be taking pictures and I will of course have more questions as we move along and start putting stuff back together. Taking it off is one thing right? Anyhow, thanks for all the input and I think the pictures will help. Hopefully it is not a part that is hard to find and lost.
 

bavbob

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I think main reason for the adapter was because the old canister size makes it difficult to remove, whether it unscrewed from above or below. The clearance to drop the canister and get the new filter in, is tight and a PIA. I know someone who actually loosens his engine mounts and raises the engine a bit to get his out, mine, doable but difficult.
 

chope97

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I had one on my 73 Bavaria

I converted to the spin on oil filter back in the day when I had my Polaris Silver 73 worked well then. Easier to change the filter. It took a Purolator HP1 which could be purchased at any auto parts store
 

Stevehose

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I use a Royal Purple 30-1218 and I believe the quality of those is much better than the janky cannisters from back in the day. Also never felt comfortable that the cartridge fully seats in the housing with the spring system.
 

GolfBavaria

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Images of filter

So here is a picture of the filter. I feel the spring at the bottom of it, now your saying I just need to re-tap the reducing thread on to the main assembly coming from the motor? It is exactly the reducing thread shown in Lloyds pictures second from the bottom. The thread to the right of that spacer.
 

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Stevehose

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You need the original housing that bolts to the block which the long bolt and the cannister goes into, do you have that?

So here is a picture of the filter. I feel the spring at the bottom of it, now your saying I just need to re-tap the reducing thread on to the main assembly coming from the motor? It is exactly the reducing thread shown in Lloyds pictures second from the bottom. The thread to the right of that spacer.
 

jmackro

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That's what I figured and no I don't think I do....

If your engine is running, you must have some sort of an "original housing that bolts to the block which the long bolt and the canister go into", because that's what the spin-on adapter attaches to. As Stevehose commented, photos would save a lot of time and confusion here.

But if your engine isn't running, and that part is missing, your best bet would be finding a used one.
 

GolfBavaria

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Yeah so it is running but we are still running the adaptor with newer oil filter. I will need to take off and drain all the oil again to take pictures of what it looks like. That will not happen soon as you can see it is in paint and body work. Let's continue this later when I am able to get it back up on lift and see what is going on. I have a feeling we will figure out what I need between now and then but the illustrations have been great and I appreciate the feedback..TY!
 

Stevehose

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Jay is right, the spin on goes onto the original piece, part # 4 in the second parts diagram in the previous post. The tube that was taken out of #4 to make way for the spin on piece needs to be replaced.
 

Bert Poliakoff

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I have produced and sold over 150 spin on adaptors. There are 3 congufigurations. A 4” canister bottom bolted, a 3.5” canister bottom bolted and a 3.5” canister top bolted. Each one takes it’s own special threaded adaptor.

I have had only one complaint of the spin on leaking and that was because the fellow used a smaller filter than the Fram PH8a I recommended. The smaller filter couldn’t circulate the oil fast enough and it built up pressure and blew out the “O” ring.
 

bill

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For those staying with the original filter configuration (me), one way to avoid the mess of spilled oil and/or all the difficulty with maneuvering the canister in the close confines is to remove the the four bolts securing the oil filter assembly to the engine block and pull the whole thing out that way. You have to deal with the paper gasket but it is easy to make a new one if you wreck it. BTW, is there any difference among the three different gaskets shown in the diagram (i.e. are they interchangeable)?
 
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