Chamonix 3.0CS Restoration

HB Chris

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I’ve been busy cleaning and painting. Wheel wells were cleaned with wooden handle wire brushes and a scraper then prepped for paint. After using Chamonix base coat in a rattle can which took two coats didn’t achieve my desired results, I listened to Paul Cain and bought white DTM primer with a catalyst and reducer which I applied with a 4” foam roller and a cheap brush. Black undercoat is now invisible, over this I shot single stage rattle can Chamonix and the results are outstanding. Front struts are done and painted with the factory yellow brush strokes, strut bearings cleaned and repacked with grease, backing plates powder coated, calipers yellow zinced and rebuilt, new control arms, tie rods, idler arm bushing and track rod ready to install along with new brake hoses and tension strut bushing, subframe painted, rear springs painted as well. I just have to decide which shocks to use in the rear, the current red Konis, a used pair of Boge from Paul or find some gently used Bilsteins to match the front. I still need to paint front frame rails and finish the subframe and then install everything and get it back on the ground. I cleaned the spare tire well of the nasty black undercoating by using charcoal lighter fluid and a brush, I shot some paint but it still needs more work as you can see.

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Candia4441

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Well, looks like I will be rescuing a 73 3.0CS four speed that has lived it’s whole life in California and was last registered in 1989. I won’t have it in my garage for a week or two and I wasn’t looking for a project but my local enablers convinced me it could be a fun if not tedious project. I will post more photos when I bring it home.


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Check out that turn signal lens!

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Hello, I think front corner light is installed wrong that need to go on passenger side, am I right?
 

Ohmess

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Chris - thanks for posting your cleanup/restoration techniques. I've not used charcoal lighter fluid. Helpful info.

I am amazed at how clean your floor looks in all of these pictures, despite the nasty work!
 

HB Chris

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The underside is very original and solid with its original grey undercoat and no popping portholes either. I bought Wurth grey undercoat in a quart can to fill in where the original has peeled with a stubby brush and also a spray can of same to shoot where only touch-ups are needed. (Thx to Paul Cain on these)
 

lip277

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I just came in from the shop myself... It does help sometimes...
 

HB Chris

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I just finished installing drive shafts with new hardware, somehow though Paul makes my work look amateurish. :)
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Exhaust will be replaced later. My diff paint marks were white and I will touch them up now Paul.
 

HB Chris

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Another challenging task, removing the MC and booster. I bled the brakes but pedal went to floor anyway, bad MC sign. Five pipes and of course one was a devil to get off without stripping even with my flare wrench. Got it off, booster full of fluid due to bad MC of course. To remove it I had to remove PS reservoir and hoses so I took the pump out too, it was going to get rebuilt anyway. It was a struggle to get the booster forward between front carb and fender but got it out. Will vapor hone PS and Alt brackets, replace PS hoses, rebuild booster, new MC courtesy of Mr. Cain. That means I have to paint the inner fender too which was much further down the to-do list. And I might as well pull carbs and manifolds as they will get vapor honed too. Time for a Pliny!

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HB Chris

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Every task just gets harder, I had erased from my memory how hard it is to remove carbs and manifolds. Each manifold has two nuts that you have to use an open end 12mm wrench as the socket won’t fit And you have almost no leverage. I will probably just remove the head too as it is easier in the long run to reinstall.

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